Home Made Fletching Jig
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Home Made Fletching Jig
G’day,
I thought I should share the design of this simple and inexpensive fletching jig that I designed and made about ten years ago and used to fletch my arrows.
It consists of three pairs of 0.5mm stainless steel sheet strips cut to size that the fletch can be fully sandwiched between them and two 18-20mm thick and about 50mm diameter plywood disks with about 8mm deep grooves to accommodate the strips when the fletch are glued in position. In addition you will need at least three paper clips, four tack nails and four rubber bands. The whole shebang is shown on picture 1.
Picture 2: It shows how a fletching is sandwiched between a pair of stainless steel strips and clipped. You can notice that the strips have been slightly twisted to give the fletching required helix. I twisted them gripping them each end with a pair of pliers and just twisting in opposite directions. I cut the strips using hand metal sheet scissors and filed the edges and corners to dull them. One of the strips in each pair is longer so that the longer ends will fit in the grooves in plywood disks. The grooves in plywood disks were cut using a hacksaw blade just by hand. They are obviously at 120 degrees angles.
Picture 3: Shows al here fletching sandwiched and ready for the glue to be applied. Self adhesive strips can also be used.
Picture 4: Shows the discs and the grooves for the fletching holding stainless steel strips. Each disk has a hole in the centre for the arrow shaft to go through. One of the disks (rear one) also has these elliptical cutouts that are joined to the central hole for the arrow. These are if your shaft has a nock already installed that is of a bigger diameter than the disc central hole you will not be able to remove the rear disk by sliding it over the nock. In this case you will have to remove the rear disk by pushing it forward so that the fletching will pass through these elliptical cutouts. Each disk has a couple of tack nails embedded at opposite sides for the rubber bands to be attached that fix the disk to the shaft at desired location.
Picture 5: Shows the rear disk attached to the shaft using two rubber bands. Rubber bands when installed need to be quite tout to hold the disk firmly in position. For this picture I used an arrow I already have fletched before (about ten years ago) using this very jig.
Picture 6: Shows all the fletching in place. You can also apply additional rubber band around all strips pressing them gently against the shaft until the glue hardens.
Hope someone might decide and make one.
Lou
I thought I should share the design of this simple and inexpensive fletching jig that I designed and made about ten years ago and used to fletch my arrows.
It consists of three pairs of 0.5mm stainless steel sheet strips cut to size that the fletch can be fully sandwiched between them and two 18-20mm thick and about 50mm diameter plywood disks with about 8mm deep grooves to accommodate the strips when the fletch are glued in position. In addition you will need at least three paper clips, four tack nails and four rubber bands. The whole shebang is shown on picture 1.
Picture 2: It shows how a fletching is sandwiched between a pair of stainless steel strips and clipped. You can notice that the strips have been slightly twisted to give the fletching required helix. I twisted them gripping them each end with a pair of pliers and just twisting in opposite directions. I cut the strips using hand metal sheet scissors and filed the edges and corners to dull them. One of the strips in each pair is longer so that the longer ends will fit in the grooves in plywood disks. The grooves in plywood disks were cut using a hacksaw blade just by hand. They are obviously at 120 degrees angles.
Picture 3: Shows al here fletching sandwiched and ready for the glue to be applied. Self adhesive strips can also be used.
Picture 4: Shows the discs and the grooves for the fletching holding stainless steel strips. Each disk has a hole in the centre for the arrow shaft to go through. One of the disks (rear one) also has these elliptical cutouts that are joined to the central hole for the arrow. These are if your shaft has a nock already installed that is of a bigger diameter than the disc central hole you will not be able to remove the rear disk by sliding it over the nock. In this case you will have to remove the rear disk by pushing it forward so that the fletching will pass through these elliptical cutouts. Each disk has a couple of tack nails embedded at opposite sides for the rubber bands to be attached that fix the disk to the shaft at desired location.
Picture 5: Shows the rear disk attached to the shaft using two rubber bands. Rubber bands when installed need to be quite tout to hold the disk firmly in position. For this picture I used an arrow I already have fletched before (about ten years ago) using this very jig.
Picture 6: Shows all the fletching in place. You can also apply additional rubber band around all strips pressing them gently against the shaft until the glue hardens.
Hope someone might decide and make one.
Lou
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- Fetching Jig 1.jpg (164.4 KiB) Viewed 10127 times
- Stickbow Hunter
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Jeff, thanks, glad you like the jig.
Erron, the price of the gadget was not on the design criteria list but costing almost nothing is certainly a bonus when comparing it with the boughtten ones that can cost more than $100-200. And it does the job just as well. It only takes about 5 minutes to fletch an arrow, plus about 10-15 minutes initial drying time. Yo can also adjust the helix. The satisfaction with something you have actually designed and made yourself makes it even more attractive.
wrc.555, I actually do have a couple of different lengths of steel strips and yes, you can have very long strips, you will only need more paper clips.
Lou
Erron, the price of the gadget was not on the design criteria list but costing almost nothing is certainly a bonus when comparing it with the boughtten ones that can cost more than $100-200. And it does the job just as well. It only takes about 5 minutes to fletch an arrow, plus about 10-15 minutes initial drying time. Yo can also adjust the helix. The satisfaction with something you have actually designed and made yourself makes it even more attractive.
wrc.555, I actually do have a couple of different lengths of steel strips and yes, you can have very long strips, you will only need more paper clips.
Lou
fletching setup
Lou,
Absolutely brilliant! I am starting an archery group at my school and wanted to show them ways of making their own equipment. Up until now, I have been fletching one feather at a time, using two aluminium plates and a spring clip similar to yours. However, this has been time-consuming (having to hold the clip in place until the glue took) - your setup is such a great solution. Thanks for sharing it - this will save us having to buy a fletching jig.
Absolutely brilliant! I am starting an archery group at my school and wanted to show them ways of making their own equipment. Up until now, I have been fletching one feather at a time, using two aluminium plates and a spring clip similar to yours. However, this has been time-consuming (having to hold the clip in place until the glue took) - your setup is such a great solution. Thanks for sharing it - this will save us having to buy a fletching jig.
If you want to get fussy you can stick to the shaft a narrow piece of masking tape or something similar so the edge of it is parallel with the centre line of the arrow. Than you dot mark the offset you want at the front end. Once the fletching is glued you remove this strip of masking tape. Or you can pencil the line instead of using masking tape.
However it is not difficult to get it very accurate just by eye.
Most importantly, no matter what you do, all the fletching on one arrow will be at the same angle and spacing.
And even more impotantly one should make sure that his shooting is so good that slight variations in flatching angling between the arrows will actually matter.
Lou
However it is not difficult to get it very accurate just by eye.
Most importantly, no matter what you do, all the fletching on one arrow will be at the same angle and spacing.
And even more impotantly one should make sure that his shooting is so good that slight variations in flatching angling between the arrows will actually matter.
Lou
See, this is why i Like Ozbow, and other sites like it, so much. A place where you can share great ideas and methods and get feedback on your own.
Erron, thanks (yes, again! ), if you ever consider shutting this site down, there will be a whole lot of unhappy campers out there that will band together, train like warriors and hunt you down to give y'all big old slappin'!
buford
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Stupid TV! Be more funny!
- Mick Smith
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- Location: Surf Coast Victoria
Lou thats a very innovative and original design. Certainly its a classic case of thinking outside the square. It would be great for our younger members to make and save a bit of cash. I wouldn't mind one myself either, applying all three feathers at once and the time saved by doing so is very appealing. It looks to be within the average person's ability to construct. I reckon even I could make it.
I can see this idea really taking off. It will certainly be a boon to most new members. Thanks for sharing with us.
Mick
I can see this idea really taking off. It will certainly be a boon to most new members. Thanks for sharing with us.
Mick
There is no use focusing on aiming if you don't execute the shot well enough to hit what your are aiming at.
- CameronPotter
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- Location: Seattle, USA
Well, I just put this up as a featured thread. This is EXACTLY the kind of thing that needs to be kept for newbies like myself.
I was going to borrow a jig from Norman, but I might make this instead! Now, I just need to borrow a hole saw and see if I can get a few scrap so of steel together - I might try mild steel instead as I have heapes of that lying around from an old project.
My feathers and nocks and points should arrive today (and not a moment too soon - I broke an arrow yesterday and another arrow had the nock crack off).
Now I just need to settle on what wood to use.
I was going to borrow a jig from Norman, but I might make this instead! Now, I just need to borrow a hole saw and see if I can get a few scrap so of steel together - I might try mild steel instead as I have heapes of that lying around from an old project.
My feathers and nocks and points should arrive today (and not a moment too soon - I broke an arrow yesterday and another arrow had the nock crack off).
Now I just need to settle on what wood to use.
Sorry for late response guys, I was away for a couple of days…
Mick, sure a big score for you here ! Actually evenly spaced grooves for the needle to pass through can be cut in the strips and it would make “sowing†a breeze.
Stace, glad you and your son like the jig. He will have another thing to keep him focused on making his own gear, just like his dad.
Cam, glad you also like the jig. With so much positive feedback It seems it was worthwhile posting the whole thing. Can we have some pics of yours when you finish it?
Lou
Mick, sure a big score for you here ! Actually evenly spaced grooves for the needle to pass through can be cut in the strips and it would make “sowing†a breeze.
Stace, glad you and your son like the jig. He will have another thing to keep him focused on making his own gear, just like his dad.
Cam, glad you also like the jig. With so much positive feedback It seems it was worthwhile posting the whole thing. Can we have some pics of yours when you finish it?
Lou
- CameronPotter
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- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Absolutely Lou,
I just need to get around to going out to the shed (and braving the Tassie winter). Also, at the moment I don't have shafts, so the jig wouldn't be much use, but I will try to make it soon anyway (so when I do have shafts it will be 'right to go).
Also, any reason you used plywood rather than normal wood? Any reason you use stainless steel instead of aluminium or mild steel? Any reason you made the steel plates 0.5mm thick rather than 1mm thick?
Thanks
Cam
I just need to get around to going out to the shed (and braving the Tassie winter). Also, at the moment I don't have shafts, so the jig wouldn't be much use, but I will try to make it soon anyway (so when I do have shafts it will be 'right to go).
Also, any reason you used plywood rather than normal wood? Any reason you use stainless steel instead of aluminium or mild steel? Any reason you made the steel plates 0.5mm thick rather than 1mm thick?
Thanks
Cam
Thanks Cam,
Used plywood because it is laminated and more equally strong in all directions (will not split across the disk)
Used stainless as one it does not corrode and two its mirror finish is easy to clean from any glue that might get in contact with it.
Used 0.5mm because it was strong enough for the job but it was relatively easy to twist to make helix. Also it happened that I had some. You can use 1mm as well.
Good luck with it,
Lou
.
Used plywood because it is laminated and more equally strong in all directions (will not split across the disk)
Used stainless as one it does not corrode and two its mirror finish is easy to clean from any glue that might get in contact with it.
Used 0.5mm because it was strong enough for the job but it was relatively easy to twist to make helix. Also it happened that I had some. You can use 1mm as well.
Good luck with it,
Lou
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- CameronPotter
- Posts: 598
- Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:01 pm
- Location: Seattle, USA
Lou, great idea.
Mick, great addition.
Lou,
What's with the disc that has the thre teardrop holes coming off the middle hole?
Dave
Mick, great addition.
Lou,
What's with the disc that has the thre teardrop holes coming off the middle hole?
Dave
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Bow making courses, knife making courses, armour making courses and more:
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Articles to start making bows:
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- CameronPotter
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