Adam's bow
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Adam's bow
This is a thread I have created to illustrate how Adam's bow is built. I will be up front and state that some things I will not post or discuss. So if you ask a question and I do not respond, don't bother asking again.
Anyone who reads this should also be warned that not all bows survive my testing procedures. Those which do not are binned and I start again. If this happens with Adam's bow I will examine the failure and post some pics.
I will only insert one or two pics per post.
So let's begin.
Anyone who reads this should also be warned that not all bows survive my testing procedures. Those which do not are binned and I start again. If this happens with Adam's bow I will examine the failure and post some pics.
I will only insert one or two pics per post.
So let's begin.
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- This is the two types of fabric I use and one completed laminate.
- RIMG0145.JPG (83.06 KiB) Viewed 8647 times
Last edited by gilnockie on Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Norman
Draw, anchor, loose.
Draw, anchor, loose.
Re: Adam's bow
gilnockie wrote:I will be up front and state that some things I will not post or discuss. So if you ask a question and I do not respond, don't bother asking again.
what glue do you use?
only kiddin mate.
cheers
Matt
Stupid TV! Be more funny!
Here are some pics of the timbers.
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- This is the Leatherwood timber and Leatherwood veneer.
- RIMG0155.JPG (83.79 KiB) Viewed 8634 times
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- This is a piece of Leatherwood timber.
- RIMG0152.JPG (81.73 KiB) Viewed 8634 times
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- This is the Leatherwood timber with Leatherwood veneer and Celery Top Pine veneer.
- RIMG0153.JPG (85.21 KiB) Viewed 8635 times
Norman
Draw, anchor, loose.
Draw, anchor, loose.
The limbs of my bows consist of three components: the back, the central core and the belly. Each is made up of several layers.
The back is combination of a layer of carbon with either a single layer of bamboo or several layers of veneer. The back is a parallel layer, it does not taper.
The belly is identical to the back, except it is laid up in two parts in order to lock the riser into the stave.
The central core tapers from the end of the fades to nothing a few inches short of the tips.
Today I laid up the back of Adam's bow.
Here is the first photo. The underside of the carbon lam is being sanded. The light grey area is the sanded area, the black area is untouched.
The back is combination of a layer of carbon with either a single layer of bamboo or several layers of veneer. The back is a parallel layer, it does not taper.
The belly is identical to the back, except it is laid up in two parts in order to lock the riser into the stave.
The central core tapers from the end of the fades to nothing a few inches short of the tips.
Today I laid up the back of Adam's bow.
Here is the first photo. The underside of the carbon lam is being sanded. The light grey area is the sanded area, the black area is untouched.
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- RIMG0164.JPG (82.93 KiB) Viewed 8487 times
Norman
Draw, anchor, loose.
Draw, anchor, loose.
Andy's bow
Norman,
The attention you have shown in each step is a real education to someone like me just starting out in bowmaking. I am not sure if you have covered these points in your introduction: What are the dimensions of the back and tapered core laminations? How much reflex is built into your form?
The attention you have shown in each step is a real education to someone like me just starting out in bowmaking. I am not sure if you have covered these points in your introduction: What are the dimensions of the back and tapered core laminations? How much reflex is built into your form?
v2.0.erron wrote:Dumb statement coming up:
So... the untensioned reflex is built in by having the material bent into shape, then the layer of laminate that is added on the "inside of the curve" is shorter overall than length it is bonded to? Sorry, even though I am sitting on a "bent" plywood chair I've never stopped and thought this through before.... so by being shorter, it pulls the length in a given direction?
(sorry if this was a statement of the bleeding obvious)
Buzz
I have often wondered just how this works. I think it has something to do with the concave surface of one layer being in compression and the convex surface of the adjacent layer being in tension. When they are glued together the layers work against each other, tending to hold them in shape. The objective is to stiffen the limbs by building a curve ino them. Although the curve on a HH style longbow is minimal.
Pete
There are several advantages to using veneers. They are stronger than an equivalent thickness of timber; the many layers look good when seen from the side of the bow and I can vary the depth taper to suit my individual needs. I am not limited to the standard timber profiles profiles which other bowyers use. However, the greatest advantage is that you do not need a band saw, drum sander and dust extraction system because it is not necessary to slice a narrow lath with a band saw and SAND a piece of timber or bamboo to obtain a taper in thickness. When I make the tapered section of the core, probably tomorrow, you will see what I mean.
The veneers are not cheap, but they are not overly expensive either. I cannot honestly say any more than that. They are probably cheaper than purchasing tapered lams but probably no cheaper than grinding your own. With regard to time, I have no idea how long it takes to re-saw and sand a tapered timber lam, and I have never botherd to time myself in preparing the veneers for a bow. I am probably lucky because where I live there are two veneer mills and I can have a packet delivered in a few days.
Guys, I think I will pass on the tractor.
I have often wondered just how this works. I think it has something to do with the concave surface of one layer being in compression and the convex surface of the adjacent layer being in tension. When they are glued together the layers work against each other, tending to hold them in shape. The objective is to stiffen the limbs by building a curve ino them. Although the curve on a HH style longbow is minimal.
Pete
There are several advantages to using veneers. They are stronger than an equivalent thickness of timber; the many layers look good when seen from the side of the bow and I can vary the depth taper to suit my individual needs. I am not limited to the standard timber profiles profiles which other bowyers use. However, the greatest advantage is that you do not need a band saw, drum sander and dust extraction system because it is not necessary to slice a narrow lath with a band saw and SAND a piece of timber or bamboo to obtain a taper in thickness. When I make the tapered section of the core, probably tomorrow, you will see what I mean.
The veneers are not cheap, but they are not overly expensive either. I cannot honestly say any more than that. They are probably cheaper than purchasing tapered lams but probably no cheaper than grinding your own. With regard to time, I have no idea how long it takes to re-saw and sand a tapered timber lam, and I have never botherd to time myself in preparing the veneers for a bow. I am probably lucky because where I live there are two veneer mills and I can have a packet delivered in a few days.
Guys, I think I will pass on the tractor.
Norman
Draw, anchor, loose.
Draw, anchor, loose.
Tonight I laid up the tapered core for Adam's bow. Here are some pics showing the veneers of different lengths.
Tomorrow when it comes out of the clamps, I will clean up the glue dags and post some pix showing the curve.
You can see that the layers are numbered and the lengths (in mm) are pencilled on each. Don't bother copying them in the hope of building a duplicate of Adam's bow; how do you know the numbers are correct?
The layers are aligned on the centre line so that the tapered core is symmetrical.
Tomorrow when it comes out of the clamps, I will clean up the glue dags and post some pix showing the curve.
You can see that the layers are numbered and the lengths (in mm) are pencilled on each. Don't bother copying them in the hope of building a duplicate of Adam's bow; how do you know the numbers are correct?
The layers are aligned on the centre line so that the tapered core is symmetrical.
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- RIMG0202.JPG (82.97 KiB) Viewed 7942 times
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- RIMG0203.JPG (84.18 KiB) Viewed 7942 times
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- RIMG0204.JPG (84.81 KiB) Viewed 7942 times
Norman
Draw, anchor, loose.
Draw, anchor, loose.