TWO BOWS FOR SALE

[greybeard]

I will be taking these bows to Wisemans Ferry so let me know if you are interested.

Just finished, right hand greybeard longbow and draws 40# @ 28”.

Core is comprised of four tapered laminations of vertical bamboo and has .040 Bo tuff black glass back and belly.

The handle is constructed from Rosewood and Tasmanian Blackwood and features accent strips of Lemonwood and black glass.

I do apologize for the lousy photo.

40 lb Longbow.jpg (85.62 KiB) Viewed 7499 times

Bamboo and hickory bow with recurved tips, 40# @ 28”.

Bamboo and Hickory Bow.jpg (60.92 KiB) Viewed 7499 times

Please pm me if you require further details.

Daryl.

[hunterguy1991]

As always Daryl, beautiful work mate!! A couple of folks will love these I'm sure

[Gringa Bows]

Very very nice Daryl

[greybeard]

Bamboo and hickory bow sold.

Daryl.

[greybeard]

Fibreglass / bamboo bow sold.

Daryl.

[Ian Turner]

Hi Rod,
You are right; I am now the happy owner of the glass backed longbow and it is a fine example of the bowyers (Daryl's) craftsmanship.
The way he has reversed the pattern on the opposite sides of the riser with inlay and the 2 different shades of wood is quite spectacular and ensures it will be a unique bow and it shoots well to boot!
Cheers
Ian

[Preston]

Hello Daryl, please help me I want to make a longbow 50# @26" I have 2 strips .05 botuff and 6 parallel and 2 .002 tapered lams each 36" long together including the glass the butt thickness comes to .391 inch I want to make a hill style bow with flat limbs what should be the width profile and length and also the riser shape and length I look forward to your reply.....thanks

[greybeard]

Hi Preston,

When you ordered the glass and core materials did you give the relevant details such as draw length, nock to nock length and draw weight.

Nock to nock length will have a bearing on the final draw weight. Additionally was your 26” draw calculated on the AMO measure or DLPP [draw length pivot point often referred to as true draw length.]

If you go to the link below you will find a pdf attachment [bamboo bow build a long] that you can download. It is sufficiently detailed to allow a person to build a bow.

http://www.ozbow.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2990

Cheers,

Daryl.

[Preston]

Daryl, thanks for the PDF file its a nice concise step by step buildalong... Making the riser is the most daunting part for me....
The lams and glass I ordered from Bingham's its for 45#@26" 64" mild rd bow. But I now think for my first bow a flat hill style bow would be easier especially the hardest part for me the riser!

[greybeard]

Hi Preston,

.....I want to make a longbow 50# @26" I have 2 strips .05 botuff and 6 parallel and 2 .002 tapered lams each 36" long together including the glass the butt thickness comes to .391 inch I want to make a hill style bow with flat limbs what should be the width profile and length and also the riser shape and length...

If you are going to make a ‘Hill’ style flat bow 66 inches n to n is probably more suited to your 26” draw length with an overall length of sixteen inches for the riser.

With regards to the final limb width give or take a ml or two will not make a huge difference in the final draw weight.

......The lams and glass I ordered from Bingham's its for 45#@26" 64" mild rd bow.....

The image [Bingham chart] below shows the difference in draw weight between the two limb profiles. Shortening the longbow to 66 inches will gain a few pounds in draw weight.

Length_Draw Weight.jpg (56.24 KiB) Viewed 7088 times

I have to accept the data at face value as I have not seen these numbers verified.

At this point in time I believe a well made durable bow takes precedence over getting the exact draw weight.

Daryl.

[Preston]

Daryl thanks for your reply and the chart.....so you are right getting a successful bow is more important than draw weight being exact to my liking..... Could you please help me with the width profile? I have made quite a lot of board bows and boo backed reflexed bows...would a similar width profile be good with a glass bow? With flat limbs I,m looking for accuracy and durability not speed and I am wondering if I should add about half an inch of built in deflex.....or just leave it flat.....

[bigbob]

My glass backed howard hill style longbows with a 16'' riser, measure 1 1/8'' wide at the fades and taper straight to the nocks where they average around 1/2'' wide. hope this helps.

[greybeard]

Hi Preston,

The measurements for my 68" longbows are similar to bigbobs. Depending on the particular bow I may make it a tad narrower.

To help preload the limbs a little I add 1 1/4" inches of reflex into the form. This may add a little more poundage to the draw weight.

Daryl.

[Preston]

Bob thanks for your reply...what is the length of your bow? And is it prymid limb with no thickness taper?

[Preston]

Hello Daryl, correct me if im wrong...with a straight taper to the nocks with a thickness tapered limb wouldn't the tips bend a bit too much unless there is a reverse taper at the tips....with some reflex built in how does it effect accuracy? With my boo backed reflexed bows I'm not as good as with a bow with a bit of set.
That's one of the reasons why I want to build a flat bow it should be better for me with 0 set/reflex it will be between a reflexed bow and a bow with some set. Could you please check if you hill bow limbs are the same thickness or if they are tapered and if so is there a reverse tapered wedge at the tips....

[greybeard]

...with a straight taper to the nocks with a thickness tapered limb wouldn't the tips bend a bit too much unless there is a reverse taper at the tips.....

Preston,

I run tapered core laminations in all my longbows, the taper rate being just under .001 per lineal inch.

Occasionally I may run a thin parallel lamination under the belly glass.

Perhaps the reverse taper is used to stiffen the tips in deflex / reflex bows.

....with some reflex built in how does it effect accuracy? With my boo backed reflexed bows I'm not as good as with a bow with a bit of set.....

With better cast one could expect some improvement in accuracy, perhaps your bow could be out of balance or you shooting technique may need improvement.

....... Could you please check if you hill bow limbs are the same thickness or if they are tapered and if so is there a reverse tapered wedge at the tips....

Fortunately I don’t have a ‘Hill’ bow so I cannot comment on the core lay-up. There may be details on the Hill website.

........The lams and glass I ordered from Bingham's its for 45#@26" 64" mild rd bow.........

Was the core combination recommended by Bingham’s for a deflex / reflex bow or did you pick the combination?

Perhaps you could email Bingham's explaining the situation in that you want to make a flat laid bow and get their recommendations.

Daryl.

[Preston]

.
Hello Daryl, the core combination was recommended by Bingham's for a 64" r/d bow.... You use .001 taper and it obviously works for you so I'll go with what I have and see what happens...I will use a straight taper from fade to tips.
My boo backed bows I made 4 of them and never got to shoot them enough I mean stick with one long enough to get used to them.... As of now with well matched arrows I can shoot a 6" group at 20 yards with an occasional flyer! That's after about a year of practice and reading and trying various methods but I was also learning along the way how to make and tune bows and match arrows it was a steep learning curve for me as I am alone with no other archer to help me but I got a lot of help reading stuff on the various archery forums. Thanks for your help.... I guess I'll contact Bingham's and see what they say before committing myself to building because I can't afforgd to buy lams again...I'll make my lams from locally available wood and try to build with .04" glass that I have and see what draw weight I get...after that I'll use the kit wood from Bingham's after gaining some confidence because I need a good hunting bow I'll be satisfied withwith....
Regards
Preston

P.s I have one little question....does the glass to wood ratio have to be 25% or could I get away with about 21%

[bigbob]

Preston my HH style bows are same as Daryl in the taper rate, being .001 per running inch, usually with 4 lams per bow.I make from 64'' to 68'' with a 16'' riser in the flat laid bows.Always put the thinnest taper up the belly ramps at the fades as it makes it easier to conform.Unless you want very heavy bows .040 glass is sufficient. i have used .050 but only for 75# -80# bows.

[greybeard]

Preston, I use .040 glass for bows in the 35# to 55# range. For bows under 35# I prefer to use .030 glass.

Daryl.

[Preston]

Hello Bigbob and Daryl,
I cant thank you enough for your time, patience and invaluable advice....the info you have given me will go a long way in helping me make a successful longbow with glass and I will start just as soon as I can make my hot box.... But I have two more problems...one is the thermostat I got uses 110 volts but I have 220 volt supply I got to use a stepdown transformer etc....the other thing is I don't have an extra pair of .002 tapers to go on the form below the acrylic sheet on the lower part of my form will it be OK to do without it or is it absoutly essential ( I know it helps aline the limbs in the center)

[bigbob]

if you are making straight laid longbows then there is no need for tapers on the form. only one piece recurves need that.re the thermostat i just used a kitcken thermometer to monitor the temp.As long as it stays below 60C its ok. much above and the strands in the glass start to 'prickle' ie stand up.i use 8 of, 100 watt [or the halogen equivalent bulbs 70w ] in my box. Maintains an even heat right along a longbow.

[Preston]

So I don't need a thermostat!!!! Ok so I'll buy a thermometer and use it to maintain just below 60 deg centigrade manually it will be cheaper than the transformers etc.....and since I'm not going to be turning out many bows......
And since I don't need the tapers...I can start as soon as I buy the thermometer
Thanks Bob.

[bigbob]

What I do is put the bow in with a temp probe running through a hole in lid and dangling down . I have found that my box maintains a fairly steady temp as long as its not stinking hot or conversely freezing. If for any reason the temp climbs a bit I just 'crack' the lid an 1'' or so. These days I hardly look at the thermometer.Enjoy your build!

[Preston]

Thanks that I will do....today I got the lams ready.....
I plan on working on the riser tommorow and buying a thermometer after that I got to put together a hot box and do the glue up

[rodlonq]

G'day Preston. I have just read all this and remembered my apprehension when getting ready to make my first bow. Just a quick comment re: taper rates. The bow pictured below is 68" NTN, has a 16" riser and uniform width taper the same as Bob's longbows. It has for tapered core laminations each with 0.0015"/" taper rate. The form is straight and the bow has about 1/8" of set after about 5 years of occasional use. I wouldn't say that a total of 0.006"/" taper makes it whip ended. If you are your limb tips too stiff they won't bend at all and therefor won't store energy.

Bow #1 On the tiller tree.jpg (152.69 KiB) Viewed 6906 times

Hope this helps rather than add more variables at this late stage in your first build.

Cheers... Rod

[Preston]

Hello rod,
Thanks for your reply....yes this being my first build its a bit stressful since I can't afford to go wrong and spoil the bow I cannot order glass again as its too expensive for me......could you please tell me a little more of your bows specs?
What is the total stack thickness and what's the draw weight @28" and also the width at fades and tips.....
I understand that you used 4 lams each tapered to .0015.....with a 16" riser....
Regards,
Preston

[HPAL]

So I don't need a thermostat!!!! Ok so I'll buy a thermometer and use it to maintain just below 60 deg centigrade manually it will be cheaper than the transformers etc.....and since I'm not going to be turning out many bows......
And since I don't need the tapers...I can start as soon as I buy the thermometer
Thanks Bob.

For anyone interested, I'm a home brewer (hopefully soon a bowyer too!) and I use one of these for controlling brewing temps, rated to 10A and quite reliable. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Thermost ... SwBahVOGHB