need some help. can one of you please tell me the best aussie timbers for making selfbows.
time to give it a go with somthing that hopefully wont break the first time i pull it back
thank you
terry
timber help
Moderator: Moderators
Re: timber help
a lot use spotted gum because of its ease to locate. pic darkest wood, straightes grain, least runouts.
grey ironbark has been said by some to be the best aussie timber.
grey ironbark has been said by some to be the best aussie timber.
...otis...
Re: timber help
Hi Terry,
Are you looking at milled boards or bush billits?
Daryl.
Are you looking at milled boards or bush billits?
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
Yeah, spotted gum is apparently bloody strong for its weight. My local timber guys tell me it's pretty commonly used by local amateur bowmakers. I've got a bit wating to go that's say.... 3x3 cm and saw it take an 80 kilo guy jumping on it without any worries. Grey Ironbark is as Otis says, notably strong... it's like ipe on paper, but I can't say I've tried it.
I made my first bow out of silver ash (flindersia), which is pretty light comparitively. It has a very straight grain, and an awesome light color. Very easy to work too. Using an overbuilt design you should be fine to make a bow from any australian hardwood I should think, if you spend your time on selecting the right board.
Go to your local hardwood yard. An amateur bowyer isn't a profitable sale for them, since they have to spend more time selecting than its worth, but if you get them on a lazy day they'll love the distraction and give you their time.
A guy called George Tsoukalas has a website with a good guide for board bows, though he talks american woods.
I made my first bow out of silver ash (flindersia), which is pretty light comparitively. It has a very straight grain, and an awesome light color. Very easy to work too. Using an overbuilt design you should be fine to make a bow from any australian hardwood I should think, if you spend your time on selecting the right board.
Go to your local hardwood yard. An amateur bowyer isn't a profitable sale for them, since they have to spend more time selecting than its worth, but if you get them on a lazy day they'll love the distraction and give you their time.
A guy called George Tsoukalas has a website with a good guide for board bows, though he talks american woods.
Re: timber help
thanks guys. as i though
daryl either, either. bush is a bit cheaper as i live in the bush. what should i look for in a bush billet
terry
daryl either, either. bush is a bit cheaper as i live in the bush. what should i look for in a bush billet
terry
Re: timber help
If you harvest bush timber you may have to wait a couple of years before you can use it. You can speed up the drying process by reducing the the log to oversized staves and seal all surfaces.
The following link may help in finding a suitable timber.
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_5509.htm
Although I love Aussie hardwoods bow design requires careful thought.
Because of the geographical location of the various species what may work in one area will not necessarily work with the same or similar species grown two thousand kilometers away. Species grown on the eastern seaboard exhibit different properties as to those grown west of the great divide.
I have purchased spotted gum boards in Brisbane but the timber was harvested in the Grafton area in N.S.W.
From my experience a flatter rectangular cross section will yield a better outcome than a deep belly narrow limbed bow.
I may be shot down in flames but I am passing on my experiences that I have encounted using Aussie hardwoods.
Limb mass is of significant importance in bows but appears to be overlooked when someone wants to make a bow.
Some of the sawn logs I have weigh 1160 kg per cubic metre, too heavy for limb material but quite good for handle sections.
Growth rings in some Aussie hardwoods are almost non existant and if there are almost impossible to follow.
Daryl.
The following link may help in finding a suitable timber.
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_5509.htm
Although I love Aussie hardwoods bow design requires careful thought.
Because of the geographical location of the various species what may work in one area will not necessarily work with the same or similar species grown two thousand kilometers away. Species grown on the eastern seaboard exhibit different properties as to those grown west of the great divide.
I have purchased spotted gum boards in Brisbane but the timber was harvested in the Grafton area in N.S.W.
From my experience a flatter rectangular cross section will yield a better outcome than a deep belly narrow limbed bow.
I may be shot down in flames but I am passing on my experiences that I have encounted using Aussie hardwoods.
Limb mass is of significant importance in bows but appears to be overlooked when someone wants to make a bow.
Some of the sawn logs I have weigh 1160 kg per cubic metre, too heavy for limb material but quite good for handle sections.
Growth rings in some Aussie hardwoods are almost non existant and if there are almost impossible to follow.
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
First I'd identify a species in your area you may think appropriately strong and straight grained. Then I say botanic gardens and other such sources can give you the information you need to identify the species. Then you'd have to find it, make sure you're legally okay to cut it down (state and national park rules etc), then find an appropriate bit of wood.
I don't think ironbark or spotty grows up north... you're in qld right? Silver ash is native to QLD, but again, it depends on your terrain.
TBH I reckon you could make a nice selfbow from any hard eucalypt.
EDIT: Daryl that's some good advice, but I don't get why you'd be shot down for the flat belly advice, I thought it was given that a flatbow is a more efficient design... and less stressful on the wood.
I'd echo your thoughts on growth rings. I'm quite new to this, but I find it frustrating to read american sources like TBB and hear them go on about visible growth rings... What rings? What winter do we ever have, really?
I don't think ironbark or spotty grows up north... you're in qld right? Silver ash is native to QLD, but again, it depends on your terrain.
TBH I reckon you could make a nice selfbow from any hard eucalypt.
EDIT: Daryl that's some good advice, but I don't get why you'd be shot down for the flat belly advice, I thought it was given that a flatbow is a more efficient design... and less stressful on the wood.
I'd echo your thoughts on growth rings. I'm quite new to this, but I find it frustrating to read american sources like TBB and hear them go on about visible growth rings... What rings? What winter do we ever have, really?
Re: timber help
Scientific name Corymbia citriodora subsp. variegata, C. citriodora subsp. citriodora, C. maculata, C. henryi. Family: Myrtaceae.
Local names Spotted gum, lemon-scented gum (C. citriodora subsp. citriodora only), spotted irongum.
Description and natural occurrence On favourable sites, these species grow to 45 m in height and 1.3 m in stem diameter, but attain only half these dimensions on poorer sites. They have straight, slender trunks with smooth bark. The bark is shed in patches, giving the species its characteristic spotted appearance. Colour tones range from pink to grey-blue.
Corymbia citriodora subsp. variegata occurs mainly in the coastal areas of northern New South Wales and southern Queensland, but also in western areas of southern Queensland. C. citriodora subsp. citriodora grows from the mid-north coast of NSW to the Windsor Tableland, North Queensland. C. maculata occurs from Bega (NSW) to the mid-north NSW coast, and also a disjunct occurrence in eastern Victoria. C. henryi grows in northern New South Wales and southern Queensland.
Sawn timber from these species is generally available, and spotted gum is currently the highest volume native hardwood harvested in Queensland. Future supplies of plantation-grown spotted gum should be available from most regions in central and southern Queensland on suitable soils and where the mean annual rainfall exceeds 600 mm.
Wood appearance Colour. The heartwood ranges from light brown through to dark red-brown. Sapwood is usually white and up to 50 mm wide.
Grain. Moderately coarse textured and variable. Gum veins common. The presence of wavy grain can produce an attractive fiddleback figure.
Properties of mature, natural grown timber Density. 1010 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 1.0 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne. The density of plantation-grown timber of C. citriodora subsp. variegata aged 11 and 41 years: 87% and 108% mature timber density. C. citriodora subsp. citriodora aged 3 years: 71% mature timber.
Gum veins common. Can be a problem if it is in the board and not visible from the exterior.
Grey ironbark
Scientific name Eucalyptus drepanophylla, E. paniculata. Family: Myrtaceae
Local names White ironbark, narrow-leaved ironbark
Description and natural occurrence A medium sized tree attaining a height of 30 to 50 m and a stem diameter of 1.5 m. The stem is usually straight and free of branches for a considerable length. The bark hard, coarse, deeply furrowed and ridged. It ranges from dark brown to black in colour and is persistent to the small branches.
E. drepanophylla is found from northern New South Wales to Bundaberg, Queensland. It is also found in scattered patches as far north as the Atherton Tableland.
E. paniculata - found only in New South Wales from Bega to Coffs Harbour.
Wood appearance Colour. The heartwood ranges from reddish-brown to dark brown. The sapwood is lighter in colour and averages about 20 mm in width.
Grain. Tight and usually straight grained.
Wood properties Density. 1105 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 0.9 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne.
Narrow-leaved red ironbark
Scientific name Eucalyptus crebra. Family: Myrtaceae
Local names Ironbark, narrow-leaved ironbark, red ironbark
Description and natural occurrence A large hardwood with deeply furrowed, grey or black bark. Grows to 30 m in height and 0.7 m in diameter. It is the most widely distributed of the ironbarks occuring across the Great Dividing Range and inland. Extends from Sydney to Cairns, growing on a wide variety of soils and is drought and frost resistant.
Wood appearance Colour. Heartwood is red-brown to dark red and sapwood white to pink-white.
Grain. Close-grained, occasionally interlocked.
Wood properties Density. 1090 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 0.9 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne.
Daryl.
Local names Spotted gum, lemon-scented gum (C. citriodora subsp. citriodora only), spotted irongum.
Description and natural occurrence On favourable sites, these species grow to 45 m in height and 1.3 m in stem diameter, but attain only half these dimensions on poorer sites. They have straight, slender trunks with smooth bark. The bark is shed in patches, giving the species its characteristic spotted appearance. Colour tones range from pink to grey-blue.
Corymbia citriodora subsp. variegata occurs mainly in the coastal areas of northern New South Wales and southern Queensland, but also in western areas of southern Queensland. C. citriodora subsp. citriodora grows from the mid-north coast of NSW to the Windsor Tableland, North Queensland. C. maculata occurs from Bega (NSW) to the mid-north NSW coast, and also a disjunct occurrence in eastern Victoria. C. henryi grows in northern New South Wales and southern Queensland.
Sawn timber from these species is generally available, and spotted gum is currently the highest volume native hardwood harvested in Queensland. Future supplies of plantation-grown spotted gum should be available from most regions in central and southern Queensland on suitable soils and where the mean annual rainfall exceeds 600 mm.
Wood appearance Colour. The heartwood ranges from light brown through to dark red-brown. Sapwood is usually white and up to 50 mm wide.
Grain. Moderately coarse textured and variable. Gum veins common. The presence of wavy grain can produce an attractive fiddleback figure.
Properties of mature, natural grown timber Density. 1010 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 1.0 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne. The density of plantation-grown timber of C. citriodora subsp. variegata aged 11 and 41 years: 87% and 108% mature timber density. C. citriodora subsp. citriodora aged 3 years: 71% mature timber.
Gum veins common. Can be a problem if it is in the board and not visible from the exterior.
Grey ironbark
Scientific name Eucalyptus drepanophylla, E. paniculata. Family: Myrtaceae
Local names White ironbark, narrow-leaved ironbark
Description and natural occurrence A medium sized tree attaining a height of 30 to 50 m and a stem diameter of 1.5 m. The stem is usually straight and free of branches for a considerable length. The bark hard, coarse, deeply furrowed and ridged. It ranges from dark brown to black in colour and is persistent to the small branches.
E. drepanophylla is found from northern New South Wales to Bundaberg, Queensland. It is also found in scattered patches as far north as the Atherton Tableland.
E. paniculata - found only in New South Wales from Bega to Coffs Harbour.
Wood appearance Colour. The heartwood ranges from reddish-brown to dark brown. The sapwood is lighter in colour and averages about 20 mm in width.
Grain. Tight and usually straight grained.
Wood properties Density. 1105 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 0.9 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne.
Narrow-leaved red ironbark
Scientific name Eucalyptus crebra. Family: Myrtaceae
Local names Ironbark, narrow-leaved ironbark, red ironbark
Description and natural occurrence A large hardwood with deeply furrowed, grey or black bark. Grows to 30 m in height and 0.7 m in diameter. It is the most widely distributed of the ironbarks occuring across the Great Dividing Range and inland. Extends from Sydney to Cairns, growing on a wide variety of soils and is drought and frost resistant.
Wood appearance Colour. Heartwood is red-brown to dark red and sapwood white to pink-white.
Grain. Close-grained, occasionally interlocked.
Wood properties Density. 1090 kg/m3 at 12% moisture content; approximately 0.9 m3 of seasoned sawn timber per tonne.
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
thanks again guys.
daryl you are a world of information
terry
daryl you are a world of information
terry
Re: timber help
No, it is doing the research to find the information you require. The information came from the link in one of my earlier replies.terryzac wrote:thanks again guys.
daryl you are a world of information
terry
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_5509.htm
The following photos illustrate a bow made from a late growth Iron Bark billet made by Alan Jones from Mt Kilcoy.
The thickened area of of the limbs were slightly reflexed using steam and tip overlays added.
Messed up the re-sizing of photos, scroll left to right.
- Iron Bark Bow 001.jpg (186.27 KiB) Viewed 3710 times
- Iron Bark Bow 003.jpg (178.14 KiB) Viewed 3710 times
- Iron Bark Bow 004.jpg (188.92 KiB) Viewed 3710 times
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
i love that shape daryl. i made one similar out of stringy and intend doing some more with other timbers.
that one is a beautiful bow. gets me keen to make more bows
that one is a beautiful bow. gets me keen to make more bows
...otis...
Re: timber help
What about blackwood and some of the Australian wattles? Are they good bow timbers? Not that I'll be making a bow just yet, I need to learn how to shoot straiight first 
I just have a passion for wattles and their timber, beautiful plants and in some cases (blackwood, silver wattle & black wattle) beautiful timber too.
I just have a passion for wattles and their timber, beautiful plants and in some cases (blackwood, silver wattle & black wattle) beautiful timber too."With staff in hand, the hunter stood on Radholme's dewy lawn" The Hunters Song (Olde Lancashire Poem) by Richard Parkinson.
Re: timber help
I'm constantly impressed by the kind of info state forestry departments can give. I contacted NSW's a couple weeks back to ask about how and where I could harvest timber for bows (living in sydney there's nowhere but my yard or a fair whack of travel). They were great, explaining what permits i'd need and telling me where spotted gum is located in state forests.
PLANnet is also a cool resource, it can tell you where a species is reported to be found and give you details on species identification. The jargon is very botanical, but they have a decent glossary of terms. You'll be classifying eucalypts by terete peduncles in no time.
Daryl: That bow looks awesome, kind of molgabett style? I love the look of ironbark and I bet its strong as all hell. Any idea how it shoots?
EDIT: Another good source I've trawled through in recent times is the Wood Explorer Database, which is a woodwork/construction database. It's a comprehensive (but by no means exhaustive) resource and it gives a rough idea of a wood's properties. It does have its limitations however, as its not an australian source. It gets some names and species wrong, spotted gum for example is listed as Australian Hickory, scientific name Eucalyptus Maculata (outdated name). You can however look up species occuring in australia and compare stats.
PS: Does anyone knoow about using Bottlebrush for bows? Some americans on paleo planet were saying that calistemon citrus could make a nice bow, and being a fairly common street tree that'd be awesome. Could be c. viminalis...
PLANnet is also a cool resource, it can tell you where a species is reported to be found and give you details on species identification. The jargon is very botanical, but they have a decent glossary of terms. You'll be classifying eucalypts by terete peduncles in no time.
Daryl: That bow looks awesome, kind of molgabett style? I love the look of ironbark and I bet its strong as all hell.
Any idea how it shoots?EDIT: Another good source I've trawled through in recent times is the Wood Explorer Database, which is a woodwork/construction database. It's a comprehensive (but by no means exhaustive) resource and it gives a rough idea of a wood's properties. It does have its limitations however, as its not an australian source. It gets some names and species wrong, spotted gum for example is listed as Australian Hickory, scientific name Eucalyptus Maculata (outdated name). You can however look up species occuring in australia and compare stats.
PS: Does anyone knoow about using Bottlebrush for bows? Some americans on paleo planet were saying that calistemon citrus could make a nice bow, and being a fairly common street tree that'd be awesome. Could be c. viminalis...
Re: timber help
Hi Muntries,
The terminology blackwood is somewhat vague.
I have used Tasmanian Blackwood as handle material in laminated bows and have ground it to .025†for veneers under clear glass and using hard rock maple or vertical bamboo as core laminations.
It performed well for the above applications but would be hesitant if using it for selfbows. One of two milled slabs that I purchased was very porous and soaked up the clear finish like blotting paper.
Acacia rhodoxylon. Spear wattle, Family: Leguminosae.
http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au/26_5699.htm
I was impressed with black wattle when used as core material under glass. When bracing the bow you could feel the ‘springiness’ in the limb.
The photo is of the species that I have used and I think it is the same as shown on the link. I have some split billets drying from which I shall try to make a selfbow.
Grub infestation can be a problem.
Alphitonia excelsa, Rhamnaceae; Soap tree, red ash.
http://www.brisrain.webcentral.com.au/0 ... .asp?ID=21
Can produce excellent self bows, but you will have to harvest your own. To the best of my knowledge it is not a commercially viable species for sawn timber. I have two small diameter logs ready for splitting.
Works similar to hard rock maple when using hand tools and sanding.
Knots and irregular growth can make tillering a challenge.
Daryl: That bow looks awesome, kind of molgabett style? I love the look of ironbark and I bet its strong as all hell. Any idea how it shoots?
Goblin,
It is a fairly ordinary bow to shoot. 52# @ 24" and does not like to be drawn any further.Six or so inches extra length would smooth the bow out. A bulkier handle would help. Personally I do not think the design lends itself to ironbark.
Style may be closer to an Andaman Island bow.
Daryl
The terminology blackwood is somewhat vague.
I have used Tasmanian Blackwood as handle material in laminated bows and have ground it to .025†for veneers under clear glass and using hard rock maple or vertical bamboo as core laminations.
It performed well for the above applications but would be hesitant if using it for selfbows. One of two milled slabs that I purchased was very porous and soaked up the clear finish like blotting paper.
Acacia rhodoxylon. Spear wattle, Family: Leguminosae.
- Black%20Wattle%20Flowers%20009.jpg (49.83 KiB) Viewed 3655 times
I was impressed with black wattle when used as core material under glass. When bracing the bow you could feel the ‘springiness’ in the limb.
The photo is of the species that I have used and I think it is the same as shown on the link. I have some split billets drying from which I shall try to make a selfbow.
Grub infestation can be a problem.
Alphitonia excelsa, Rhamnaceae; Soap tree, red ash.
- Red Ash.jpg (24.45 KiB) Viewed 3655 times
Can produce excellent self bows, but you will have to harvest your own. To the best of my knowledge it is not a commercially viable species for sawn timber. I have two small diameter logs ready for splitting.
Works similar to hard rock maple when using hand tools and sanding.
Knots and irregular growth can make tillering a challenge.
Daryl: That bow looks awesome, kind of molgabett style? I love the look of ironbark and I bet its strong as all hell. Any idea how it shoots?
Goblin,
It is a fairly ordinary bow to shoot. 52# @ 24" and does not like to be drawn any further.Six or so inches extra length would smooth the bow out. A bulkier handle would help. Personally I do not think the design lends itself to ironbark.
Style may be closer to an Andaman Island bow.
Daryl
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
Hi Daryl,
I'm an ecologist myself, I know the confusion of using common names over botanical. Blackwood is generally the name given to Acacia melanoxylon, Tasmanian Blackwood is just a selection from the NW of Tasmania that is said to have the best growing form from harvestable timber but the tree occurs in Queensland in isolated populations and then all the way down the great divide in NSW and into Vic and Tasmania. Black wattle is Acacia mearnsii and Silver Wattle is Acacia dealbata and again the trees I see growing in South Gippsland seem to be the best for form. They're lovely timbers but always wanted a bow with Blackwood, especially blackheart, where the timber gets dark stains from naturally occurring fungus. Not sure if the blackheart affects the integrity of the timber but itscertainly looks nice
Simon
I'm an ecologist myself, I know the confusion of using common names over botanical. Blackwood is generally the name given to Acacia melanoxylon, Tasmanian Blackwood is just a selection from the NW of Tasmania that is said to have the best growing form from harvestable timber but the tree occurs in Queensland in isolated populations and then all the way down the great divide in NSW and into Vic and Tasmania. Black wattle is Acacia mearnsii and Silver Wattle is Acacia dealbata and again the trees I see growing in South Gippsland seem to be the best for form. They're lovely timbers but always wanted a bow with Blackwood, especially blackheart, where the timber gets dark stains from naturally occurring fungus. Not sure if the blackheart affects the integrity of the timber but itscertainly looks nice
Simon
"With staff in hand, the hunter stood on Radholme's dewy lawn" The Hunters Song (Olde Lancashire Poem) by Richard Parkinson.
Re: timber help
Ok some pictures of blackwood
- Attachments
-
- Acacia_melanoxylon1.jpg (14.25 KiB) Viewed 3640 times
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- 1BLACKWOOD.jpg (63.47 KiB) Viewed 3640 times
"With staff in hand, the hunter stood on Radholme's dewy lawn" The Hunters Song (Olde Lancashire Poem) by Richard Parkinson.
-
longbow steve
- Posts: 3116
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:29 pm
- Location: BLUE MOUNTAINS
Re: timber help
Hi Muntries, Melanoxylen does not fair well in the compression stakes in a wide long flatbow so as a self bow wood it is poor. Steve
Re: timber help
Thanks Steve, seems Daryl had some reservations too. I love the timber but my love affair will have to be limited to furniture only
"With staff in hand, the hunter stood on Radholme's dewy lawn" The Hunters Song (Olde Lancashire Poem) by Richard Parkinson.
Re: timber help
The only bow woods i have used is spotted gum, ironbark and white ash (mountain ash). I have been most successful with spotted gum though. The only slight downside is its fairly hard to work with, especially hand tools. For my first bow, it took many hours of scraping. There are many other good bow woods out there, spotted gum is readily available where i live and extremely cheap to work a bow out from.
Cheers, Toby
Re: timber help
As much as I like Australian hardwoods, when it comes to making bows we have to think outside the square.
What has been the success rate of selfbows, not backed, made from Aussie hardwoods?
Although I have made some selfbows from these woods limb mass and string follow seems to be a problem. Limbs can be steamed into reflex and tips recurved to help minimise string follow.
Qualification needs to be made between bush billets and milled boards. Bush billets afford the luxary of late and early growth whereas with milled boards you get little choice.
Thin core laminations utilising bamboo as the back and belly can help to reduce limb mass.
Daryl.
What has been the success rate of selfbows, not backed, made from Aussie hardwoods?
Although I have made some selfbows from these woods limb mass and string follow seems to be a problem. Limbs can be steamed into reflex and tips recurved to help minimise string follow.
Qualification needs to be made between bush billets and milled boards. Bush billets afford the luxary of late and early growth whereas with milled boards you get little choice.
Thin core laminations utilising bamboo as the back and belly can help to reduce limb mass.
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: timber help
not necessarily.muntries wrote:Thanks Steve, seems Daryl had some reservations too. I love the timber but my love affair will have to be limited to furniture only
if you really want to use it, and compression will be an issue, you could try glueing a lam of blackwood 4-5mm thick to a board of spotty, ironbark or similar and make a backed selfbow (possibly a lam bow i suppose). this way you get the perty colours on the back and a belly wood that can handle compression. i have done this with stringybark backed ironwood. if it proves not to have enough flex/stretch to handle the belly wood you could use a higher ration of backing to belly or back the blackwood with clear fibreglass cloth.
just some ideas anyway. daryl is right though, backing our timbers with boo is a good option.
...otis...