correct arrow length

[looseplucker]

This is being looked at in the context of tuning the bow - but what is the "correct" length? I've always gone off arrows I had made when I started making my own, but is there a calculation that takes into account the weight of the tip, fletching type?

Cheers

[Waltron]

Are you talking wooden arrows?
Otherwise, the main arrow making companies all have arrow charts that take into account the length and point weight. These are pretty accurate too, although I've seen some bows that require stiffer and some softer spine arrows than recommended.

[looseplucker]

Yes - sorry. I am also shooting off a leather shelf - homecrafted bow.

I am shooting VA arrows in 5/16 with 125gr tusker and ribtek B/heads or 125gr field points.

The bow is 48#@27" - and is 60"ntn

I draw 27" - and I have been going of arrows I had made for me ages ago but am thinking that the ones I have made based on those are overlong.

I have dug out some calculation guides and I am going to go by the edge of the shelf closest to the back of the bow as the pivot point. I am thinking that 1" beyond that with an allowance for the taper should be enough.

My current arrows are longer even than that.

[longbow steve]

Hi John, Consider where your broadhead will be when you decide on a length, an inch over hang is not a problem especially when you are after more mass in your arrow for hunting. Another thing is whether you reference the point of the arrow when aiming or just look and shoot? Steve

[Tuffcity]

I draw 30" so I cut my wood arrows at about 33" or 34" if I'm making a self nock. This takes into account the taper for a broadhead and about an inch of clearance at the sharp end. I find with my bow I have to spine out my arrows around 80-90#'s to shoot well at 56# of bow weight at my draw. Your mileage may vary.

RC

[looseplucker]

Thanks colleagues

I am going to re-check my lengths tonight. But I have plenty of wiggle room with a 27" draw.

[Stephen Georgiou]

Hello John,
Just one more thing on arrow length. The arrow length will be dictated by the spine of the arrow you need. If the arrow is stiff, a longer length will be needed and a softer shaft will need to be shorter to compensate for this. So if you are after a specific length arrow, you will first have to choose the spine either weak for shorter or strong for longer lengths.

I find that tip weight is harder to use as an adjustment simply because of the limited range of weights available.
This also means that you need to have a number of different tip weights to use as guides when selecting tip weight for a particular arrow.

Hope this helps
regards SG

[looseplucker]

Steve

My shafts are spined 55-65# but even so I think I am shooting them at a length a tad too long.

I'll have a measure up tonight and post the data tomorrow and see what people think.

Course, as Mr Stickbow Hunter so astutely commented on another thread, it is probably my shooting that has raised the question mark

[Stephen Georgiou]

http://www.rosecityarchery.com/spine.htm shows 55-60 spine arrows suit a bow of 45-50lb if arrows are cut at 29". the tip weight for this chart is 125grains and the off center shot of 1/8" Have a look at this site as it has a step by step guide on arrow selection.
Cheers

[Stickbow Hunter]

John,

I would cut your arrows to the length you want them - with a 27" draw a suggestion would be 28" to the back of your broadhead. Work out what spine suits your setup with that length arra. I don't see the sense in having all different length arras for tuning purposes; get them flying right for the length you want them.

Jeff

[looseplucker]

thanks Jeff - got yr email too.

I measured up last night and I am drawing 27" but my arrows are around the 29.5" mark.

I need to get them down to size for the O/S trip anyhow, so they fit in the tube that goes in the suitcase - and that is without the broadies on there.

The arrows have flown pretty good in the past although my groups were not as tight as I would have liked - but I certainly found that some did fly in a way suggesting the length/spine/bow poundage was out of whack.

Will see how it goes and report back.

[matt_d]

John, this might throw a cat amongst the pigeons, but you will get better arrow flight using a longer arrow with a couple inches overhang.. If you want to get really technical, you might want to try flex tuning your arrows. The reason for this is that your want the arrow's front node of vibration to be on, or very slightly behind the arrow shelf.
You can test this by placing the front of the arrow across a narrow edge (doesn't matter what you use), holding the nock end steady and flexing the arrow shaft down a few millimetres and letting go. You'll notice the front of the arrow vibrates against the edge and jumps around a bit. Move the position of the arrow on the edge back and forth and find the spot where it stops vibrating. You've found the front node and that's where you want the arrow to be resting against the shelf. You need to do this with your desired point weight because the spot will move with different weight points. You might need something like 2" overhang to get the node tuned perfectly to your bow. It WILL make a difference to your arrow flight.
Hope this helps..
Cheers,
Matt

[looseplucker]

Cats among pigeons? Great spectacl - what's not to like?

I'll give your suggestions a go Matt - but the arrows must be shorter or they can't get into checked baggage and even with the heads removed I don't like my chances of getting them on as cabin baggage.