A meeting of two crafts
Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 3:16 pm
Hi guys,
I wanted to show something I've been working on for a while - something I don't know if anyone has tried before. In recent years, I've made a few bows, from self bows to fiberglass laminate bows. My past training and passions have been more centered around gold/silver-smithing and jewellery design.
In the bow pictured, I've brought these two diciplines together, to see if I could produce a bow of %100 function and useability, reliability, and durability, with a 'useable art' mind set. That is - can I use my favourite non-ferrous metals in such a way that ornamentation can be applied to a modern traditional bow, with NO loss of function or durability in the finished bow. The bow is one that I've shown here earlier in the year, and shot approx. 1000 through, to test it's unadorned fuctionality. I love this bow! The outer limbs are perhaps a tiny bit stiff, and the inner limbs perhaps a tiny bit too quick to start bending out of the fades. But tis is my first glass/timber laminate bow......The result is a surprisingly fast longbow (68", 63lb@28"), with a gentle 'thump' feeling on release. Lovely and quiet, surprisingly easy to draw for a bloke who had previously drawn a 55lb recurve as his heaviest bow.
The mirrored panels of metal ornamentation are oxidised copper, and have been produced by my pet technique called 'Repousse'. This technique allows a thin sheet of metal (.7mm in this case) to be sculpted into pronounced and detailed relief, with a hammer and steel punches of many different sizes, textures and shapes. The metal sheet is supported in a heavy iron vessel full of 'jewellers pitch', which is a semi resillient, pine-resin based substance- allowing the metal to 'yield' in response to the percussive action of hammer and punch.
I have tried to put myself in the place of a maker (or lover) of traditional bows, and long before I began executing this concept - I had to answer some questions. This is my attempt at pre-empting queries that may jump straight to mind as you look at this bow design, and points I had to satisfy for myself before I really entertained the whole concept.
Q - Are'nt these metal inserts going to 'pop out' of the riser when the bow is drawn/released?
A - I truly don't believe so! I intend on reporting once I've put another 1000 or so arrows through this bow to confirm, But I feel quite comfortable that the outermost points of each metal plate, are comfortably short of the bending section of the fade out.
Q - How are the plates mounted / attached to the riser?
A - It was critical to my motivation to even try this project, that any metal ornamentation in the riser would be FLUSH with the surface of the timber. The riser is meant to look as if it suddenly changes in lustre and texture, but is a homogenous object - NOT like some scrubber just came along and stuck bits of metal to their bow! After experimenting, I developed a method of cutting the recessed areas into the riser using a dremel routing bit for the main area, and lino/wood carving tools to really finesse the edges to be deadly accurate and sharp. One of the two inserts actually 'snapped' into it's recess - can't get it much closer than that! I used Techniglue to cement the plates in place, as it's the best and strongest epoxy I have. Am still toying with the idea of tapping three CAD designed small brass 'nails' into pre drilled 1mm holes at each corner of each insert. If the epoxy doesn't do the job by itself though, this would be a superfluous feature.
Q - Do the metal inserts add weight to the bow?
A - In a way, I wouldn't mind it they did - but they don't. Taking into account the .7mm deep recessed areas of wood that are removed from the riser mass, I'd say the copper inserts may result in the tiniest of net weight gain - like 1-2 grams. maybe. The beauty of Repousse' metal work (or some of the beauty) is that it creates an impression of pronounced, sculptural relief from very thin sheets of material. Once the metal is formed, it becomes 'work hardened', and very strong (impact resistant) for it's weight. The beauty of such a thin, work hardened piece of metal, is that it will still retain some flexibility as a whole. Although these components are, as I seeit currently, safely away from any bending forces, the tough, yet yielding nature of repousse ' copper or silver makes it not unlike it's host timber riser.
Q - Can other metals than copper be used?
A - Yes! In my opinion, repousse' is suited best to non ferrous (non-iron containing) alloys, such as copper, brass, silver, gold, and even platinum. Obviously, as the specific gravity of the alloy goes up, the heavier the 'comparable' insert becomes. Therefore, a gold insert would weigh more than one of copper.
Q- get really picky - is there any downside to a bow that's been fitted with ornamental metal inlays???
A - presuming upon 1000 more successful shots from this bow with no distortion or falling out of the inlays.......there's not really...... A hunter would probably feel compelled to cover or wrap these inlays to camoflage any reflecting light, but I'd say a lot of hunters would do this anyway. The inlays are on the 'non-shelf' side of the bow, and so with the average canted draw, the metal components are tilted down and away from the sun in any case.
Q - Is there a 'plus' to a bow featuring Repousse' additions?
A - Only looks. My goal here was to decoratively enhance a purely functional object - for zero effect on the function of the object. A 'prettied up' bow that had it's primary function reduced..........would go straight into my bin. Non- negotiable.
Well guys, I'd be very curious to know your impressions and feedback. Please feel free to pose any questions of this idea that I've not tackled myself above.
I would ask, that if this isn't your cup of tea........to be nice. I haven't really seen anything like this attempted (and fear that at any moment it will become painfully apparent to me why!!:):)), and am a bit protective of my little idea. I know it's a bit different, but if I can maintain 100% performance and function in bows like this, well I'd be pretty pleased. feel free to go over the top if you're impressed:):):), but if not, please be gentle and/or constructive.
Darren
I wanted to show something I've been working on for a while - something I don't know if anyone has tried before. In recent years, I've made a few bows, from self bows to fiberglass laminate bows. My past training and passions have been more centered around gold/silver-smithing and jewellery design.
In the bow pictured, I've brought these two diciplines together, to see if I could produce a bow of %100 function and useability, reliability, and durability, with a 'useable art' mind set. That is - can I use my favourite non-ferrous metals in such a way that ornamentation can be applied to a modern traditional bow, with NO loss of function or durability in the finished bow. The bow is one that I've shown here earlier in the year, and shot approx. 1000 through, to test it's unadorned fuctionality. I love this bow! The outer limbs are perhaps a tiny bit stiff, and the inner limbs perhaps a tiny bit too quick to start bending out of the fades. But tis is my first glass/timber laminate bow......The result is a surprisingly fast longbow (68", 63lb@28"), with a gentle 'thump' feeling on release. Lovely and quiet, surprisingly easy to draw for a bloke who had previously drawn a 55lb recurve as his heaviest bow.
The mirrored panels of metal ornamentation are oxidised copper, and have been produced by my pet technique called 'Repousse'. This technique allows a thin sheet of metal (.7mm in this case) to be sculpted into pronounced and detailed relief, with a hammer and steel punches of many different sizes, textures and shapes. The metal sheet is supported in a heavy iron vessel full of 'jewellers pitch', which is a semi resillient, pine-resin based substance- allowing the metal to 'yield' in response to the percussive action of hammer and punch.
I have tried to put myself in the place of a maker (or lover) of traditional bows, and long before I began executing this concept - I had to answer some questions. This is my attempt at pre-empting queries that may jump straight to mind as you look at this bow design, and points I had to satisfy for myself before I really entertained the whole concept.
Q - Are'nt these metal inserts going to 'pop out' of the riser when the bow is drawn/released?
A - I truly don't believe so! I intend on reporting once I've put another 1000 or so arrows through this bow to confirm, But I feel quite comfortable that the outermost points of each metal plate, are comfortably short of the bending section of the fade out.
Q - How are the plates mounted / attached to the riser?
A - It was critical to my motivation to even try this project, that any metal ornamentation in the riser would be FLUSH with the surface of the timber. The riser is meant to look as if it suddenly changes in lustre and texture, but is a homogenous object - NOT like some scrubber just came along and stuck bits of metal to their bow! After experimenting, I developed a method of cutting the recessed areas into the riser using a dremel routing bit for the main area, and lino/wood carving tools to really finesse the edges to be deadly accurate and sharp. One of the two inserts actually 'snapped' into it's recess - can't get it much closer than that! I used Techniglue to cement the plates in place, as it's the best and strongest epoxy I have. Am still toying with the idea of tapping three CAD designed small brass 'nails' into pre drilled 1mm holes at each corner of each insert. If the epoxy doesn't do the job by itself though, this would be a superfluous feature.
Q - Do the metal inserts add weight to the bow?
A - In a way, I wouldn't mind it they did - but they don't. Taking into account the .7mm deep recessed areas of wood that are removed from the riser mass, I'd say the copper inserts may result in the tiniest of net weight gain - like 1-2 grams. maybe. The beauty of Repousse' metal work (or some of the beauty) is that it creates an impression of pronounced, sculptural relief from very thin sheets of material. Once the metal is formed, it becomes 'work hardened', and very strong (impact resistant) for it's weight. The beauty of such a thin, work hardened piece of metal, is that it will still retain some flexibility as a whole. Although these components are, as I seeit currently, safely away from any bending forces, the tough, yet yielding nature of repousse ' copper or silver makes it not unlike it's host timber riser.
Q - Can other metals than copper be used?
A - Yes! In my opinion, repousse' is suited best to non ferrous (non-iron containing) alloys, such as copper, brass, silver, gold, and even platinum. Obviously, as the specific gravity of the alloy goes up, the heavier the 'comparable' insert becomes. Therefore, a gold insert would weigh more than one of copper.
Q- get really picky - is there any downside to a bow that's been fitted with ornamental metal inlays???
A - presuming upon 1000 more successful shots from this bow with no distortion or falling out of the inlays.......there's not really...... A hunter would probably feel compelled to cover or wrap these inlays to camoflage any reflecting light, but I'd say a lot of hunters would do this anyway. The inlays are on the 'non-shelf' side of the bow, and so with the average canted draw, the metal components are tilted down and away from the sun in any case.
Q - Is there a 'plus' to a bow featuring Repousse' additions?
A - Only looks. My goal here was to decoratively enhance a purely functional object - for zero effect on the function of the object. A 'prettied up' bow that had it's primary function reduced..........would go straight into my bin. Non- negotiable.
Well guys, I'd be very curious to know your impressions and feedback. Please feel free to pose any questions of this idea that I've not tackled myself above.
I would ask, that if this isn't your cup of tea........to be nice. I haven't really seen anything like this attempted (and fear that at any moment it will become painfully apparent to me why!!:):)), and am a bit protective of my little idea. I know it's a bit different, but if I can maintain 100% performance and function in bows like this, well I'd be pretty pleased. feel free to go over the top if you're impressed:):):), but if not, please be gentle and/or constructive.
Darren