Ozbow

I've picked up some bulk timber that is more than I can deal with in the short term (some recently cut, some cut a few months ago, more to be cut), what is the best way to seal it up so that I can

a) split some now, some a bit at a time in the future and some long term
b) leave it as entire logs to leave my options open in the future on use

Some are quite large diameter logs down to smallish stuff.

Do I split the logs I intend to dry as staves, seal the ends then de-bark and seal again as I go? Split and seal the ends and leave the bark on? De-bark and fully seal the entire logs?

Some (osage) will have borers in it already, but from my experience they only touch the sapwood. Some yet to be cut will attract borers through the whole log so will need protection.

Will be stored in the shed in a moderately stable temperature and dry humidity.

Thanks

Steve

There are probably very few people on this site who harvest / split and dry logs.

I have previously used a wax based product produced by B.P.

Google the internet, there is a lot of information out there.

Daryl.

PVA glue is quite commonly used and easy to get hold of.

PVA was my first thought from previous reading, but there is so much info a lot of it is conflicting on product and method If I had the time, money and energy I'd do some side by side trials of some of the favourite methods and see for myself.

Daryl

I was just in the right place at the right time, so I got VERY lucky to be offered the timber in the first place. It wasn't my first choice to harvest a lot of logs at once, but it was a 'take it now or it's getting burnt' situation, so I didn't have a choice in this instance. I'm also thinking long term as I can see myself using timber for many years for various purposes as I just like working with timber and it was a once in a lifetime opportunity.

Anyone want to swap some osage for a bandsaw?

Steve

i use PVA glue or tape plastic shopping bags over the ends

My Dad used to harvest a lot of timber for wood turning. I think he mixed borax with PVA glue to repel borers.

any white wood glue for me.Leave wood/logs stacked on strips of thin wood so air can get between each piece of wood. Somewhere climate is moderate and not too humid/dry.

LB rod 55 wrote:i use PVA glue or tape plastic shopping bags over the ends

Talking to the old man, he told me that a neighbour of his used to mill/split the timber green, then wrap it in gladwrap and store away. He used to by gladwrap in commercial sizes though.

Nearly bought myself a HVLP gun today to spray it all, but ended up with a large brush instead

Think I'm too late for the stuff I grabbed this w/e as it's been down for a few months and there is already signs of borers, but I've yet to see any go past the sapwood in even very old wood, so not too worried.

I recommend removing the Bark. In my experience leaving the Bark on is a guaranteed invite to Borers. Stack as described before. regular surface Spray is also useful to repel Pests. It sounds like you have a large quantity of timber so thinning it all down may not be practical but debarked Staves that are thinner than they are wide will dry without warping and excessive checking

regards Perry

Flyonline Steve is a true gentleman - he came up to my place and left me half the Osage we milled! This picture is what was left about halfway through divvying up the boards. The thicker, meatier boards are out of shot.
When I bump into board members over the next few months I'll bring a few bits for you to season & have a play with.

Neil

Good on you Flyonline. Cutting into Boards will minimise potential for warping and speed up drying. Look forward to seeing what you Fella's can produce from this Osage.

regards Perry

Thanks Neil, the culmination of a long and very fortuitous set of events there. Still can't believe how heavy that stuff is, my back feels sore just thinking about moving that big log again!!

Might be a while Perry, they're only a few months from being a tree

get into it and make sawdust. Coming into summer if you work a Stave down to floor tillered stage, thats when the limbs start moving but before Brace it will dry in a matter of Days not months. I have cut tree's mid week and been shooting them on the Weekend, fastest was from tree to bow shooting it's firs Arrow 3 days.

Try an experiment, whittle a piece of timber down to Floor Tiller, weigh it and then set it aside for 2 days, then repeat every day and when it stops loosing weight it is dry enough to finish the Stave into a Bow. I repeat I have often cut Tree's one weekend, worked them to floor tiller on the Day and been shooting a perfectly seasoned Bow the next weekend. There is much BS about the place about drying timber for months and years.

Think about it , did Ugh the Caveman carry around a lump of wood for months or years waiting for it to dry or did he rip into it with Stone Tools whilst it was green and soft and much easier on him and his tools. I'd bet you that Ugh the Caveman worked his lump of wood to the Floor Tiller Stage and hung it up over his Hearth in the warm air and smoke. Then the next day he would have worked it to Brace Height and then hung it over his hearth again, maybe the next day remove some Toolmark's and the next day or 3 finished it. I'll bet that Ugh the Caveman might have a few lessons for modern Bow Makers

regards Jacko

Fair enough Perry, I have read a bit on others recommending the same thing so I will try and give it a go. I have a few nice staves that I split up so I might start on them. Finding time to work on them is the biggest issue, hence wanting to prevent it from checking in the beginning.