It sounds like you're having some problem tillering. I didn't get the 'feel' for it until I worked alongside much, much better bowyers who showed me in person how it was done. Same with flemish twist strings. But learning in person might just be a me thing.
There are much more qualified individuals on the board to attest to this, but my understanding of tillering is to spread the bending work as equally across the length of the limb as possible. Compare this tillering job against yours -
- RO Static Tip Board.jpg (200.94 KiB) Viewed 4114 times
This is by no means a 'perfect' tiller (Although the angle of the shot does make it seem like the bottom limb is bending too much) but you can see it's bending far closer to the fades than yours. This bow has parallel width limbs for 4" past the fades from where it linearly tapers to 0.5" at the tips. It didn't need a lot of tillering work as the limb width profiles did most of it for me. It could pay off to find someone who can show you how they tiller their bows, I know it helped me.
Here's another mistake that I've noticed we both make - we're both guilty of overbuilding risers.
- RO Board Trilam.jpg (247.35 KiB) Viewed 4114 times
Please ignore the tiller on this - it was made from ground lams on a fibreglass bow form with the intention of learning if Red Oak boards could be processed into unbacked lam-style bows and to get a bit of practice in grinding fades in a trilam "sandwich" riser.
I've taken a look at the bows I've bought and often the flat section on the riser, where the hand actually engages the bow, is little more than 4" in many cases. For instance, on a Chekmate Crusader multilam there is an 18" riser with 7" fades either side. This results in a lighter, more elegant bow.
Anyway, good luck! Keep at it and you'll pick up new things with every build, even if you don't get a tremendous bow by the end of it.
....what does that area look like at full draw?. That's a good job on the bow to 
