Ozbow

Hey all
I have been given 2 big chunk s of Yew.
they aren't long enough for bows so I need to splice two bits together.
Are there any special requirements for splicing and for Yew bows?
cheers

Hi Feral,

The link below shows how I do my splices.

Daryl.

http://www.ozbow.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=15045

\ Thanks that very helpful.
I just have to figure out if the bow needs backing
cheers

The diagram illustrates the basic dimensions that I use when splicing billets. I would suggest that four inches is the minimum length for the splice and the width can be altered to suit the stave at hand. Do not sand the saw cuts smooth as the rough surface aids in a stronger bond with the epoxy. Most epoxies do have some gap filling properties.

The red ash selfbow had sufficient depth in the handle for strength; whereas the bamboo backed hickory bow was a little shallow in the handle so a piece of hickory added to the belly to strengthen the splice and to allow some shaping of the handle. Handle wraps hide the splice.

If your yew billets are heart wood some form of backing may be advisable. I prefer pole bamboo over other materials. Remember to cut the billets overlength as you will lose lhe splice length.

Daryl.

thanks All
But I cut a couple of slices off both chunks and the rings look like a contour map of the Blue Mountains.
the timber is beautiful but no good for bows.
It will make a lovely decorative piece for the boat I am restoring.
Oh well. But thanks f the info an splicing that will come in VERY handy for some leftover bits of she oak, spotted gum,and lots I have lying around,
What sort of glue? I have titebond and none really strong marine esapoocy-
thanks again.

Feral wrote:....the timber is beautiful but no good for bows......

As long as the timber is sound, no decay or rot you will be amazed with what you can get away with when backing with pole bamboo.

Daryl.

This is an example of the timber
With pole bamboo, where is the best place to source it?
I live near Newcastle.
Cheers

You could contact the following and see where it leads you. Try for poles in the 75 to 100 mm diameter or slats that have been split from poles of a similar diameter.

http://fencingnewcastle-kwikfynd.com.au ... oo-fencing

http://www.houseofbamboo.com.au/hob-pro ... mboo-poles

I think some of the Bunning’s outlets stock poles in their garden / landscaping departments.

If you have access to two pack epoxy glue use it in preference to other glues.

The Osage bow shown in the photo would have failed without the bamboo backing. Daryl.

Thanks Daryl.
There is a Bunnings near here I will try that

The photos Daryl posted are testament to the fact you can get away with any wood grain or growth other than rot or decay, when you back with bamboo. Nature's fiberglass. I've had similar experiences.

The contour maps, as you've described them, will look most striking.

Instead of splices, you could also consider doing takedowns. You don't lose any length that way.

How long/wide/thick are your boards?

Hi Feral, I don't know if you have already made many wood bows? If you haven't you should get some practice with a good clear, straight grained piece of suitable timber, and leave the yew until you have experience with what sort of grain will is suitable for bows.
Daryl is right a nice piece of bamboo will make an excellent backing for wood that is not suitable for a self bow, but there are limits if the wood was sawn from a twisted tree.
Knots need to be dealt with appropriately, either plugged or extra wood left around them, to stop chrysals.

If you can post some more detailed photo's of the length, and sides of the wood at the same spot ? That should show up if the grain runs off too much in either direction(sometime one face can look good, but the other may have short grain).
I wrecked many a nice piece of timber(though no yew) when I was learning to select suitable boards, because they were never structurally sound enough to make bows from (even when backed). Wonderful and useful for furniture etc.

Hamish

I have taken some better pics
I've made a few bows but not take down on spliced.
Can someone suggest a good layout for a takedown bow?
I have out the mating ends off an old Trampolene frame and squeezed them into an oval shape for the joint.
But I am not too sure about the bow layout.
I am looking around the 68" mark.
cheers

I have put the yew away. I am not comfortable they will work.
I have some spotted gum left over from my boat restoration and some red oak in the shed.
So I think I will stay with them with maybe yew risers.
Anyway. If I use a standard longbow design and cut it in half(allowing for the handle) Should that work?
Cheers

Yep, looks pretty chancy for bows, but to be honest I would really need to see them in the flesh. I wouldn't cut them all up for handles yet. Leave them long as it would be a shame to figure out later that some of the bits were suitable for bows, but are cut in half.
Hamish.