Ozbow

Hi folks
This will be a very amateur question for 99% of you, I am trying to make my first set of wood (POC) arrows and I am getting very confused over the abundance of information on the internet.
I have been told that a linseed oil / beeswax can be used to either seal or finish the arrow (I'm not sure which).
A lot of the English traditional longbowmen apparently use Lord Sheratons Caretaker Wood Balsam, which is a mix of beeswax, linseed oil and pine turpentine.
My question is this - would I apply this before or after I fletch the feathers? Will it affect the glue on the feathers (I am using Bohning Fletch-Tite Platinum)?
Any suggestions before I wreck a very fine set of POC shafts?
Thanks

You can use anything to seal arrows that you would use on wood. The mixes mentioned are traditional, I used them forty years ago and still do because I like satiny, rubbed finishes. Others like highly polished and may use varnishes. Silicone is fine too, depends on how 'trad' you want to be. The definition of traditional is very important to some, of less import to others.

The finish also affects the 'pullability' or ease of withdrawal from some target types, a personal and subjective choice there to some extent but highly varnished, siliconed arrows do release a bit better.

I have found fletching (I use cheapo superglues usually) is fine over all varnishes and paint but not so good over waxes and silicons. Some glues work better if they can soak into the wood grain/pores. I usually fletch before painting or waxing but I find over many years of trying both ways it makes little difference, my experience shows that feathers do stick well enough to paint finishes to last for years of use, so it is just personal choice imo.

poly urethane paint, four or five dips/wipe ons, then fletch (with tape) - that's how it's done here.

It is a personal choice, the above method Steve has found to be the most efficient for him.

cheers
sue

And for ME. Cheers Roadie

Specfically for me its Miniwax (a wipeon) and fletching tape

Cheers for the advice guys. So would the above mix (beeswax, linseed oil and pine turps) be considered a wax and not a varnish (sorry, I'm new to woodwork altogether)? If so, the suggestion might be to fletch onto the raw shaft and then apply the Balsam?

Lord your finish is a traditional work furniture finish. I have use it as many have in the past on furniture or internal wood structures. It is heavy,slow drying and can be tacky if you want a very traditional finish so be it. If you want a good quick reliable finish go with what has be suggested or no finish at all but you wont have any protection from the elements. Wipe on like what I have suggested are dry in two between coats just follow the instructions. Not sure how you Turps mixture will work with tape or glue. I do my tapers, miniwax(3 /4 coats sanding in between), glue my nocks(Tarzan Grip or Tarzan Grip shockable super glue), fletch and then my points( 24hr Araldite or Tarzan Grip Shockable). in that order but each to their own
TonyJ

Awesome thanks Trad, I'll go grab a tin at Bunnings. Any specific type?

Sorry Trad you do mean Minwax right, Miniwax is just a typo and not a different product?

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/int ... ipeon-poly
My preference but others are good too.