Ozbow

G'day guys,

Just a couple of questions a have come up with over the last few weeks.

Firstly, I have a friend that will be acquiring some lengths of Chinese elm in the next couple of weeks. I have heard that Elm does make nice bows and is used in the US, however I have no experience with Chinese Elm and wanted to know if anyone here has any experience in using it for self bows... From what I have read it can be used but wanted to know if anyone has first hand experience.

Secondly, I have been shooting a longbow I made a while back, made of spotted gum board, backed with Linen and have noticed it has taken a little more set than I would like. This got me thinking as to why set occurs... Since timber is stronger in tension than compression ( not always significantly though), I have concluded that set occurs from the belly timber being too weak or over stressed, but my engineering mind keeps telling me to think about it further... What do you all think is the cause of set and how could it be reduced?

I may consult a structural lecture on the matter and get their opinion on the topic.

Straight Shooting,

Colin

Next question,

Has anyone tried black wattle for a self bow? I got a stave off a mate today and its nice and straight...

Was going to just strip the bark and use the sap as the back and see what happens...

Thoughts?

Colin

I'd like to offer suggestion, but my main area of any knowledge is with laminated glass bows. There are quite a few guys that frequent this site that have expertise in self bows and the like. I have made some from spotted gum many years ago, and recently made a few successful ones from Masserenduba but that's where my experience stops. Black wattle makes great laminations in glass bows, in fact I absolutely love it for such purposes.sorry I couldn't really give any answers you seek but rest assured some one will offer advice.

Thanks for your input Bob really do appreciate it.

I have made self-bows from various wattles including a local one called 'black wattle', with success. Wattles are big on regional names though. You need to know the exact species etc.

But my feeling is you are chasing a few different imponderables. First, characteristics of timber type. I.e. rings, grain. Then characteristics of type of bow build, chasing ring etc. Then a very varied feature is the growth of a particular stave, such as facing south, in a hollow, sheltered, exposed, climate.

You are really looking for the 'feel' of a piece of wood that only really experienced woodworkers get as much as the techniques to be used. I could say black wattle is OK but not powerful - that don't mean much if your bit is better and you work it better and Queensland b wattle is different to Victorian!

hunterguy1991 wrote:Was going to just strip the bark and use the sap as the back and see what happens...Colin

Depends on the thickness of the sapwood, I would try for about 30% sapwood and 70% heart wood.

A flat bow would probably be a better design to try.

Daryl.

Cheers for your thoughts guys, will let you know how it progresses once the stave has dried... wont be working on this one for a while yet.

Colin the Black Wattle that grows in South East Queensland does make good Bows. Chinese Elm is not related to American or European Elm and it makes a reasonable heavy Arrow Shaft. It does make a reasonable Selfbow. Chinese Elm has nice Spalted Grain and takes a high lustre when Oil Finished. Both Species are best made with a flat or lenticular profile, medium width limbs at least as tall as the Archer. Neither will work well with a Deep D Section and narrow limbs consistently.

The Black Wattle will likely be eaten badly by Grubs if you do not remove the Bark ASAP and spray with Surface Spray. If there is already Grub Holes Spray into the holes and be prepared to remove the Sapwood. I have seen good Black Wattle Bows made with the Sap Wood thinned down to 1/4 " deep mainly for looks but Grey Beards advice is very good. The Sap Wood and Heart Wood will handle compression OK if the Limbs are medium Width and the Bow is as tall as the Archer.

In my experience it is best to work the Timber of both Species thinner than it is wide once you split it into Staves. If the Timber is thinner than it is wide it will dry with minimal or no Checking and Warping.

regards Jacko

G'day Perry,

Thanks very much for your thoughts and advice, I will definitely keep what you said in mind once I do get around to making bows from these timbers.

Unfortunately the Wattle stave I have is a little bit shorter than me so it may have to be a display piece if it works or go to someone shorter.

Would you advise splitting the staves in half (or quarters if possible) and then letting them dry or leaving them whole?

From what I can see the wattle stave is relatively untouched by grubs, with only one hole in the one end of the stave, however I'm yet to determine how far up the stave the hole goes. I have noticed a fair few pin holes into the bark along its length and will be curious to see what these look like when I strip the bark.

Will split probably split the stave this arvo and post some photos up for you all to look over.

Cheers,

Colin