Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

How to make a Bow, a String or a Set of Arrows. Making equipment & tools for use in Traditional Archery and Bowhunting.

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hunterguy1991
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Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#31 Post by hunterguy1991 » Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:22 pm

Hi Daryl,

Just a couple more quick questions about this bow.

Firstly, when the bow was roughed out, what thickness did you cut the limbs to too allow for tillering? from the picture it looks as tho the limbs are an even thickness throughout their length and around 10mm I would guess (no including the bamboo back)... I know this has a lot to do with desired draw weight and material properties ( ie type of wood used) but a starting point would be much appreciated.

Secondly, you said you used a gradual taper from widest point (I'm assuming the tip end of the fadeouts) to the tips... does this mean a linear taper? As in a straight line between wide point and nock?

My first attempt will be very much an experiment but I will be using Red Oak as belly material for the first one and aiming for around 40-45lb @ 28"

Colin

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greybeard
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Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#32 Post by greybeard » Wed Apr 16, 2014 2:30 pm

Colin,

I floor tiller the stave until the handle moves four to five inches and then go to the tiller board and balance the limbs to brace height. If the stave appears to have excessive poundage you can remove more timber.

The limb plan taper is not overly critical, on reflexed limbs it is almost a straight line from the handle to the string nocks but when I recurve the tips the limbs have minimal taper until about seven inches from the string nocks.

The wider limbs help reduce the possibility of limb twist under load.

There are no formulas carved in stone, make it up as you go and modify where necessary.

Irrespective of the information I put forward trial and error will be your best teacher.

Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken.
[Ascham]

“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]

I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....

hunterguy1991
Posts: 859
Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:18 am
Location: Woodford Queensland

Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#33 Post by hunterguy1991 » Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:54 pm

As always, thanks for your reply Daryl.

I understand that the process is not at all carved in stone, but I like to ask questions to improve my chances where possible...

This one will be a big learning process for me and I do appreciate all the help I can get, especially from those that are exceptional at what they do.

Cheers again,

Colin

hunterguy1991
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Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:18 am
Location: Woodford Queensland

Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#34 Post by hunterguy1991 » Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:02 pm

Hi Daryl,

Just a couple of questions about this style of bow. Firstly, would Hickory be a suitable backing material or would Bamboo be better? And would a sinew backing hole the recurves or does it need to be timber to keep them?

Second, generally how long would you make these bows? 64 inches n-t-n when flat seems like a pretty good length for a recurve like these.

And lastly, when you glue on the backing, be it bamboo or hickory (if it would work) do you use clamps all along the limbs or a rubber band or tyre tube to bind the backing on while its gluing?

Looking at having a good crack at making one like this since I have picked up some tools and done a few hickory backed bows lately.

Cheers,

Colin

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Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#35 Post by greybeard » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:00 am

hunterguy1991 wrote:Firstly, would Hickory be a suitable backing material or would Bamboo be better? And would a sinew backing hole the recurves or does it need to be timber to keep them?
I have only tried a wood backing on a recurved bow once and was disappointed as splinters lifted on the back of the bow as it was being drawn. Applying sinew to the back should resolve the issue.

Pole bamboo is my preferred backing as it is clean to work with, does the job well, is economically priced and environmentally friendly.
hunterguy1991 wrote:Second, generally how long would you make these bows? 64 inches n-t-n when flat seems like a pretty good length for a recurve like these.
64 inches n-t-n would probably be the minimum for a 28" draw. On your first attempt 66 inches n-t-n may give you more safety margin.
hunterguy1991 wrote:And lastly, when you glue on the backing, be it bamboo or hickory (if it would work) do you use clamps all along the limbs or a rubber band or tyre tube to bind the backing on while its gluing?
I use clamps because I have about 200 of them in varying sizes. Clamps are a must in the curve as rubber banding/tube will not hold the backing in tight contact with the main stave.

Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken.
[Ascham]

“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]

I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....

hunterguy1991
Posts: 859
Joined: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:18 am
Location: Woodford Queensland

Re: Bamboo, Hard Rock Maple and Steam.

#36 Post by hunterguy1991 » Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:30 am

Thanks for the advice Daryl, will bear it all in mind when I give it a go.

Colin

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