Before I start my first bow

[Bormin]

Hi everyone,

First time poster so please be kind.

Whilst looking for something completely unrelated, I came across this vid on youtube (yes i see you rolling your eyes)!

I have a keen interest in trad and would love to make my own and I thought the Mollegabet design in this vid might be a good place to start.

I have a few questions.

1. Am I dreamin' ?
2. In the vid he uses Red Oak and I’m planing on using Spotted Gum. Will the same dimensions work for Spotted Gum?
3. If yes, will the weight be roughly the same?
4. Is there a better/simpler design for which step by step instructions can be obtained to try for my first?
5. How do I select which side should be the back of the bow?

Dimensions of the blank i have 1865mm x 85mm x 20mm

Having trouble linking to a pic of the blank but I think I found a nice piece as the grain is consistent from top to bottom.

Any advice, comments etc would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Bormin

[longbow steve]

Hi Bormin, here is some reading of the bow you are considering building. No reason it wouldn't work and the weight can be adjusted through further wood removal. http://www.ozbow.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2648

[Bormin]

Thanks

[Stickbow Hunter]

Welcome to Ozbow Bormin. I don't think a Mollegabet design bow would be the easiest design to start with. A flat bow keeping the limb width pretty much the same until the outer third or so would be easier for your first attempt IMO. Do some searches and you will find a lot of information about board bows and the different designs and wood grain etc. If you want some photos posted you can email them to me and I can resize and add them for you. Just PM me for my email address.

Jeff

[Bormin]

Thanks.
The board I have is 3/4" thick. I'm guessing I'll need to build a riser for it?

Cheers,
Bormin

[Stickbow Hunter]

The board I have is 3/4" thick. I'm guessing I'll need to build a handle for it?

Yes I think you would. This topic was covered recently in one of the threads in this section so have a look. The handle wood needs to be shaped so the ends taper very slowly into the limbs. This is so the the ends bend a little and not pop the handle off.

Jeff

[Bormin]

Will do.

Thanks again Jeff.

B

[yeoman]

Hi Bormin,

to answer your questions in sequence:

1 and 4: You're not dreamin', but there are a few designs that would be far easier to build, especially for a first, third or even ninth bow. I've put templates that can be printed out at 1:1 scale to make nice, efficient longbows and flatbows in various places here on this forum.

2 and 3: If you use the same dimensions with spotted gum as with red oak, the bow will be tremendously stronger. SG is much stiffer than RO. Also, if you use the thicknesses that would work for RO, you will find you will need to remove more wood in the tillering process when using SG. This is not necessarily a bad thing for a beginner though, in my opinion. Dimensions that produce a good bow with one timber will, with some proportional adjustment, make a good bow from any timber. For extremely dense timber the bow will need to be made proportionately thinner, for very weak woods the bow will need to be proportionately wider.....but the gist of the design will be much the same.

5: Pick a board that has straight growth rings which are parallel with the edge of the board. Try to find a board that is free or tiny knots or swirls in the grain. If you can't, but can find a board that has a couple of blemishes on only one side, use the opposite side as the back.

As far as building up a riser is concerned, I think people underestimate the strength of their timbers in bow handles. I've made bows of 50 odd pounds at 28 inches, and the handle is only 20mm thick and 35mm wide, and there have been no problems with them. No need to make life harder for yourself by including glue lines when you don't need to.

Dave

[Bormin]

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions, I really appreciate it. I know it must be tiring for you guy’s.

What attracted me to the youtube vid was firstly the detailed step by step he goes through (I’m gunna need all the instruction I can get) and that the design is achievable with the few tools I have.

I would have thought that the Mollegabet design would require less area to tiller therefor easier for a beginner? I’m probably wrong. However, I’ll take your advice and go with something simpler and maybe give the Mollegabet a go later down the track.

Can I ask a favour, could you please link to where the plans are you speak of?

I have slightly dodgy shoulders and so was looking for something around the 50-55 lb range. I worked out my draw length to be 27”. I’m not sure if this information helps determine what design would suite but thought I’d chuck it in there and of course, I’d like to still use the SG blank I have (dimensions in first post).

I've attached a pic of a cross section the blank. It's grain is consistent from top to bottom and no blemishes or knots to be seen.

Thanks again for your reply Dave.
Bormin

[yeoman]

Even better - find a simple longbow attached to this post. The striations on the centerline should be 50mm or 2 inches. I can't remember.

With spotted gum this bow should handle up to 45lb or so at 28 inches. At 27, a little more. Cut the thickness outside the lines shown. The width can be cut pretty much right on the line.