What to look for when sourcing boards from timber yards etc

[hunterguy1991]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice on what to look for when purchasing boards for bows at timber yards, bunnings and the like.

Things like straight even grain, knots etc.

Any info will be a big help as im heading out to get soe wood in a couple of days...

straight shooting

Col

[Stickbow Hunter]

I have just quoted Dennis La Varenne's reply to Mick in another thread as this is how I would also want the grain orientation in a board bow. I have also attached the photo that accompanied his reply.

Jeff

I would however have taken a simpler approach in laying out my limbs. The picture you show of the boards from Matthews is how I would have left the grain laying in my limbs, ie with the edge grain showing on the back and belly of the limbs. It is far stronger and stiffer than having it lay across the limb as you have done. There is nothing wrong with it laying horizontally, it is just that with a board bow, it is stiffer, saves a lot of work and is far less wasteful of expensive wood.

On the left is the outline of a flatbow section and on the right, that of an ELB section. IN both cases, as you can see, if you had known about laying out your board to make a bow using this particular orientation, you would have gotten at least two of each design of bow from each board.

Chasing a growth ring is very wasteful and involves unnecessary work and probably why our ancestors used the first layer of wood under the bark as the back of the bow. It was simply less unnecessary work and small saplings could be used. The traditional English Longbow is prodigiously wasteful of wood, especially when a large (for Yew) diameter tree is felled and only the outer 2 inches or so are used for the stave. All the inner part of the trunk which is every bit as good wood was wasted just because it did not have the sapwood.

I have attached your picture again with the way I would have laid out a bow using these boards. You may like to try making a bow using this orientation another time.

staves.jpg (203.92 KiB) Viewed 3129 times

[hunterguy1991]

cheers jeff

that picture is a big help!!

what if its a timber like spotted gum or ironbark that doesnt have a really distinct grain like that??

Col

[Stickbow Hunter]

With Spotted Gum you can still make out the grain direction end on and I would make it as per the wood in the photo. I have seen bows made from Ironbark from down Victoria that had the grain orientated the other way and the growth rings were cut along the back of the bow but it didn't seem to make any difference and the bows shot fine.

What part of the country are you from?

Jeff

[hunterguy1991]

ok kool, i'll suss it all out tomorrow when i look for some timber.

i live up near Brisbane Qld.

Col

[Stickbow Hunter]

Col,

Since you live up this way check out Qld Red Ash (Alphitonia excelsa) as it grows all over the place and makes an excellent bow. You can just take the bark off and use the exposed outer surface of the tree as the back of the bow. It isn't available commercially but you might be able to get permission to cut some on properties near you. You often see it growing on the side of the road around these parts. I grew up knowing it as the Soap Tree. Attached are a few photos to help you identify it.

Jeff

Red-Ash-1.jpg (87.75 KiB) Viewed 3117 times

Red-Ash-2.jpg (92.43 KiB) Viewed 3117 times

Red-Ash-3.jpg (126.21 KiB) Viewed 3117 times

[hunterguy1991]

Thanks Jeff!!

i'll definetly keep an eye out for it around the place. pictures will come in handy also.

what woods do u use most commonly in bow making?? for say a backed flat bow?? and where do you aquire it?

Col

[Stickbow Hunter]

what woods do u use most commonly in bow making?? for say a backed flat bow?? and where do you aquire it?

I mainly make composite glass bows mate so I'm not much help to you I'm afraid. I have never made a backed bow. I have used Osage Orange and Red Ash for making self bows.

If you ever get up this way my brother owns a saw mill near Childers so pretty much an endless supply of Spotted Gum and Ironbark (Red & Grey) for you to rummage through. A lot of good bow wood just gets burnt on the scrap heap.

Jeff

[hunterguy1991]

ah ok, no worries.

yea i'll be sure to check it out if im ever up that way. might have to pay the relo's at Bundy a visit soon!!

cheers for the help and info!!

Col

[mikaluger]

I have just quoted Dennis La Varenne's reply to Mick in another thread as this is how I would also want the grain orientation in a board bow. I have also attached the photo that accompanied his reply.

Jeff

I would however have taken a simpler approach in laying out my limbs. The picture you show of the boards from Matthews is how I would have left the grain laying in my limbs, ie with the edge grain showing on the back and belly of the limbs. It is far stronger and stiffer than having it lay across the limb as you have done. There is nothing wrong with it laying horizontally, it is just that with a board bow, it is stiffer, saves a lot of work and is far less wasteful of expensive wood.

On the left is the outline of a flatbow section and on the right, that of an ELB section. IN both cases, as you can see, if you had known about laying out your board to make a bow using this particular orientation, you would have gotten at least two of each design of bow from each board.

Chasing a growth ring is very wasteful and involves unnecessary work and probably why our ancestors used the first layer of wood under the bark as the back of the bow. It was simply less unnecessary work and small saplings could be used. The traditional English Longbow is prodigiously wasteful of wood, especially when a large (for Yew) diameter tree is felled and only the outer 2 inches or so are used for the stave. All the inner part of the trunk which is every bit as good wood was wasted just because it did not have the sapwood.

I have attached your picture again with the way I would have laid out a bow using these boards. You may like to try making a bow using this orientation another time.

staves.jpg

Just to clarify here guys,
I should of done this ages ago, that pic of the staves is decieving, the actual sizes of the timber staves in that photo were Approx 43mm x 25mm, so if you were to cut these actual bow staves as Dennis has drawn on them, the backs would only be 25mm at their widest point.
But the concept is still valid.
Mick.