Hickory Bow

Message

KellyG · #31 Post by **KellyG** » Fri Jun 29, 2012 1:30 pm

Dennis La Varénne,

I know what happened during the tillering. I would just clamp the bow in at the handle and scrap the whole limb in the beginning and because of the flex at the tips I would not remove as much wood in the pass as I would closer to the handle.

I did not notice the until I was stringing it for the low brace but the wood just off the fade. But live and learn and I will not make that mistake again. I will clamp it about midlimb and scarp then the handle and scrap the inner limb. I think that will mitigate it.

Thanks I will scrape a bit tomorrow and get pics up.

Kelly

KellyG · #32 Post by **KellyG** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:06 am

Ok Here is where I am at.

It looks really good I think.

I tempered the belly and add some reflex on the outer third. So it should have a slight reflex deflex look. My thinking is the tempering and better tiller stops the set and the reflexs adds weight and snap. I liked the way it shot really it is soft and quiet but I am about 12# short in weight. The tempering and reflex will add up to 6#s if it goes right then I may pike it.

#33 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:11 pm

The photo isn't taken from side on to the bow which makes it harder to see the bend in the limbs. However the limbs do look to be bending better.

If you want to increase the weight why not just put reflex in the limbs rather than the deflex/reflex? You would do better with the former IMO.

Jeff

KellyG · #34 Post by **KellyG** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:48 pm

jeff it has set at the fades I really don't thank heating it up and trying to take it out would get ride of that so I put the reflex in about the last 3rd or so and that give it a R/D look. I really dont know if it will work but I will find out by about Friday.

Here is what the profile looks like for now.

greybeard · #35 Post by **greybeard** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:04 pm

Kelly,

Looking at the last photo the fade transition into the limb appears to be too abrupt which can result in a hinge developing.
A longer fade transition into the limb can reduce the stress factor in this area.

Daryl.

#36 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 2:47 pm

greybeard wrote:Looking at the last photo the fade transition into the limb appears to be too abrupt which can result in a hinge developing.
A longer fade transition into the limb can reduce the stress factor in this area.

I agree with Daryl.

With reflexing just the outer limb you will be making them stiffer and that will perhaps over stress the inner limb again.

Jeff

KellyG · #37 Post by **KellyG** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 1:06 pm

I will remember that. I did that short fade on purpose. I compared my last bow to others I seen and my fades seemed really long. compared to those I see posted here and on other sites. I just hope I did not got to the other extreme. If it fails I will have an I deal. I really did not put that much reflex in so I hope it just counters what was there and since my tiller is much better I hope to have a good bow. I know it want be great but good. I hope.

Thanks for the input it is noted and on the next one I will try and make them a bit longer.

#38 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 1:14 pm

You are doing well Kelly and it is good to see the bows you are making. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Jeff

rodlonq · #39 Post by **rodlonq** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 6:54 pm

Coming along good Kelly.

Dennis La Varenne · #40 Post by **Dennis La Varenne** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:33 am

KellyG,

I agree with Daryl about the shape of your fades or 'dips'. Have a look at this pic which Daryl posted in the Massaranduba thread.

: 03%20Fadeout%20Side%20On.JPG (45.09 KiB) Viewed 3121 times

Whilst this is a glued-on handle block, it is the shape which is important because its length and the fact that it dips fairly steeply from the handle and fades very gradually over a long distance into the limb which distributes the bending load over a larger area and prevents any hinging close to the handle.

In his picture above, you cannot actually tell where handle dip becomes actual limb.

It is that graduality of fade which is the secret of how they work and why they work. My suggestion for a length of fadeout is at least as long as the handle itself, but it is the shape which is most important.

greybeard · #41 Post by **greybeard** » Wed Jul 04, 2012 5:25 pm

Dennis & Kelly,

The add on handle blank was eighteen inches long and cut to the approximate shape before gluing to the bow blank.
When the fades were feathered into the limb the overall length was seventeen and a half inches.
The grip area is four inches.

Daryl.

KellyG · #42 Post by **KellyG** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 7:18 am

It not perfect but here is the finished bow and she is shipped off to the new owner.

I heat tempered the belly and added a small amount of reflex in the last 3rd or so of the limbs. That raised the weight 5# or so then I piked the tips and got it to about 48#@28" once finished and shot a bit.

#43 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:40 am

I'm glad it all worked out for you Kelly. I guess you can relax a bit now.

As I said early on; I really like the look of the back of the bow.

Jeff

rodlonq · #44 Post by **rodlonq** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 3:54 pm

Nice work Kelly.

bigbob · #45 Post by **bigbob** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 4:34 pm

Ditto Kelly, been following your exploits for the trade bow. Ended up looking very nice well done.

KellyG · #46 Post by **KellyG** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:41 am

thanks gents. Sorry did not get a final full draw pic up. I had to get it out and the gizmo was showing the tiller was good.

KellyG · #47 Post by **KellyG** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:28 pm

The bow made it to it's new owner and he sees pleased with it so I must have done OK.

#48 Post by **Stickbow Hunter** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 2:43 pm

Thanks for the update Kelly and it was good news!

Jeff

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