Re: Flatline opus 1&2
Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 9:25 pm
I found myself cleaning the glue off my hands at 1.30 am last night ( I'm sure there's a fold in the space/ time continuum in my shed ), but due to that things are starting to come together.
Here's a good reason to make such flash overlays,, this is the sort of thing I'm covering up. The masking tape is cut where the overlay starts and is used as a sanding guide. When gluing glass or phenolic the surface must be sufficiently roughened to provide a mechanical bond. in the case of phenolic I have found it good practice to grind enough material away to expose the fabric, and both phenolic and glass must be well sanded with 40 grit paper as a minimum.
After sanding the area I remove a bit more tape and sand approaches to the overlay with 180grt paper so the glue overlap has a bond. This same process is used for all of the overlays. I use a pyramid stack of rubber strips (to maintain even pressure) and duct tape to glue the string groove overlays on. The rubber is coated with packing tape as a bond breaker and provides a glass smooth finish to the glue. Taped up and bolt overlays clamped in place. and after a bit of a clean up. The knock tips are cut, and beveled on the grinder, then marked using the limb tip as a profile.
I'm using very thin Silver Ash veneers for the limb plane underlays because it is quite soft in lateral compression and will mold to fit the limb planes and have a mild cushioning affect. I try to do as much shapping to the knock tips as I can before they are glued on.
Run out of attachment space again, back soon.
Here's a good reason to make such flash overlays,, this is the sort of thing I'm covering up. The masking tape is cut where the overlay starts and is used as a sanding guide. When gluing glass or phenolic the surface must be sufficiently roughened to provide a mechanical bond. in the case of phenolic I have found it good practice to grind enough material away to expose the fabric, and both phenolic and glass must be well sanded with 40 grit paper as a minimum.
After sanding the area I remove a bit more tape and sand approaches to the overlay with 180grt paper so the glue overlap has a bond. This same process is used for all of the overlays. I use a pyramid stack of rubber strips (to maintain even pressure) and duct tape to glue the string groove overlays on. The rubber is coated with packing tape as a bond breaker and provides a glass smooth finish to the glue. Taped up and bolt overlays clamped in place. and after a bit of a clean up. The knock tips are cut, and beveled on the grinder, then marked using the limb tip as a profile.
I'm using very thin Silver Ash veneers for the limb plane underlays because it is quite soft in lateral compression and will mold to fit the limb planes and have a mild cushioning affect. I try to do as much shapping to the knock tips as I can before they are glued on.
Run out of attachment space again, back soon.