First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Moderator: Moderators
First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
I must say that I am impressed with the heat strip system and once familiar with the procedures it is quick and easy to use.
Clear glass was used on this initial project so I could verify that the air pressure had been applied correctly. Air was applied in 10# increments until 60# was reached. There were no trapped air bubbles under the clear glass so I am happy with the procedure.
Apart from using the system in my flat bow workshops it is also suitable for the deflex/reflex and Italian Renaissance bows that I make.
The bow depicted has not had a final cleanup or application of clear finish and the handle area has not been finished. It was purposely left this way so it would become a "stock" bow that could be shaped to the prospective customer's preference.
It is uncanny how things work out.
Whilst writing this story I received a phone call from a client wanting a bow in the 35# to 40# weight range. He is coming over Wednesday for a custom fit.
The bow specifications are as follows;
Draw weight is 38# @ 28" and the bow is 68" ntn.
Handle is Brigalow and Black Wattle separated with Black Bean and Bamboo.
The core is made up of one parallel and two tapered laminations of vertical bamboo and sandwiched between .043 clear Bo-tuff glass.
Tip overlays are late growth black wattle and clear glass.
Unfortunately with the lousy weather I have not been able to put arrows through the chronograph but the bow seemed to like the 466 grain hoop pine Wallace Woods. The bow feels well balanced and there is no hand shock.
The second bow off the form is 48# @ 28" so it will become a “stock" bow.
First arrows out of the unfinished bow and no nocking point.
I think I will have to shout myself some recurve heat strips for Xmas.
Daryl.
Clear glass was used on this initial project so I could verify that the air pressure had been applied correctly. Air was applied in 10# increments until 60# was reached. There were no trapped air bubbles under the clear glass so I am happy with the procedure.
Apart from using the system in my flat bow workshops it is also suitable for the deflex/reflex and Italian Renaissance bows that I make.
The bow depicted has not had a final cleanup or application of clear finish and the handle area has not been finished. It was purposely left this way so it would become a "stock" bow that could be shaped to the prospective customer's preference.
It is uncanny how things work out.
Whilst writing this story I received a phone call from a client wanting a bow in the 35# to 40# weight range. He is coming over Wednesday for a custom fit.
The bow specifications are as follows;
Draw weight is 38# @ 28" and the bow is 68" ntn.
Handle is Brigalow and Black Wattle separated with Black Bean and Bamboo.
The core is made up of one parallel and two tapered laminations of vertical bamboo and sandwiched between .043 clear Bo-tuff glass.
Tip overlays are late growth black wattle and clear glass.
Unfortunately with the lousy weather I have not been able to put arrows through the chronograph but the bow seemed to like the 466 grain hoop pine Wallace Woods. The bow feels well balanced and there is no hand shock.
The second bow off the form is 48# @ 28" so it will become a “stock" bow.
First arrows out of the unfinished bow and no nocking point.
I think I will have to shout myself some recurve heat strips for Xmas.
Daryl.
Last edited by greybeard on Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
- Gringa Bows
- Posts: 6331
- Joined: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:09 pm
- Location: Bundaberg QLD
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
The bow looks good Daryl.
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Like the look of it ,congrats.
nil illigitimo in desperandum carborundum
razorbows.com
razorbows.com
-
- Posts: 3116
- Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:29 pm
- Location: BLUE MOUNTAINS
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Well done Daryl, The bow looks nice. Your thoughts and recommendations re the heat strips are appreciated. Steve
- stringnstik
- Posts: 1106
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:09 pm
- Location: Cranbourne
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Fantastic Daryl, looking the goods for sure. Nice combination in woods too.
"I am the arrow..the arrow is me...together as one...I fly to thee"
"the stick maybe crooked and the string hath no form,
then married by bowyer, transforms when first drawn"
"twang....thud"
"the stick maybe crooked and the string hath no form,
then married by bowyer, transforms when first drawn"
"twang....thud"
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Great looking bow Daryl, It is good you have had success with the heat strips.
"Clear glass was used on this initial project so I could verify that the air pressure had been applied correctly. Air was applied in 10# increments until 60# was reached. There were no trapped air bubbles under the clear glass so I am happy with the procedure."
How fast do you ramp up the pressure? Given that the heat application is almost instant and the cook time very short, it must be quite quick, or do you slowly get it up to full pressure before turning on the heat strips? Thanks.
Cheers..... Rod
"Clear glass was used on this initial project so I could verify that the air pressure had been applied correctly. Air was applied in 10# increments until 60# was reached. There were no trapped air bubbles under the clear glass so I am happy with the procedure."
How fast do you ramp up the pressure? Given that the heat application is almost instant and the cook time very short, it must be quite quick, or do you slowly get it up to full pressure before turning on the heat strips? Thanks.
Cheers..... Rod
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Great looking bow!
By the way, after seeing youre group of arrows.....could you unfinish my bow and take my nocking point away? Thats great shooting!
By the way, after seeing youre group of arrows.....could you unfinish my bow and take my nocking point away? Thats great shooting!
watch youre feet, you may never know where they might take you....
Always scout like you are scouting scouts!
Always scout like you are scouting scouts!
- Chase N. Nocks
- Posts: 1463
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:33 am
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Another fine job there mate. I know you don't like to think of yourself as a master bowyer, and it has been debated here before exactly what that standard or criteria may be, but you seem to do a remarkable job on every bow with a versatile wealth of knowledge.
Now when are we gunna see some checkered riser handles.
Cheers
Troy
Now when are we gunna see some checkered riser handles.
Cheers
Troy
I am an Archer. I am not a traditional archer, bowhunter, compound shooter or target archer.....I am an Archer
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
"Shooting the Stickbow"
....enforced by the "whistling grey-goose wing."
"The Witchery of Archery"
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Hi Rod,
One minute intervals are ok.
You cannot apply heat until the form is locked up and under hose pressure. It can take some fifteen minutes or more to reach temperature and I believe the form absorbs a lot of the initial heat.
After gluing up the bow there is about twenty minutes pot life with Smooth On before it starts going to the gell stage.
I believe heat boxes are brought up to temperature before the locked up bow is placed in the box.
Daryl.
One minute intervals are ok.
You cannot apply heat until the form is locked up and under hose pressure. It can take some fifteen minutes or more to reach temperature and I believe the form absorbs a lot of the initial heat.
After gluing up the bow there is about twenty minutes pot life with Smooth On before it starts going to the gell stage.
I believe heat boxes are brought up to temperature before the locked up bow is placed in the box.
Daryl.
"And you must not stick for a groat or twelvepence more than another man would give, if it be a good bow.
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
For a good bow twice paid for, is better than an ill bow once broken. [Ascham]
“If a cluttered desk is a sign of a cluttered mind, of what, then, is an empty desk a sign?” [Einstein]
I am old enough to make my own decisions....Just not young enough to remember what I decided!....
Re: First Bow Using Heat Strips and Air Hose
Hi Daryl,
Thanks for your explanation, very clear now (and no bubbles as well ).
Cheers..... Rod
Thanks for your explanation, very clear now (and no bubbles as well ).
Cheers..... Rod