Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc.
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Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc.
Gday
im posting this because before i could shoot anywhere near well enough to think about tuning, I had to buy arrows to practice with ans started with using Stu's calculator to work out what to use. ive now refined them a bit
I use GT trads, ive got 3555, 5575 and 7595s. The 3555s are usless for bows anywhere near centrecut, over 50lb unless you want to shoot 60gr points for some reason.
the 5575s i have are 29" and the 7595s are 29.5" shaft length. according to the bareshafting, papertuning and thousands of practice arrows i have shot, the 5575s tune to a 55lb cut to centre bow with 220gr up front, and are weak with an almost identical bow at 60lbs. (2 inch left tear paper tune) 60gr point weight reduction causes perfect single hole paper tune.
the 7595s have 320gr up front and are longer. according to Stu's calculator, they are weaker in dynamic spine than the 5575s mentioned above by 3lbs. However, when shot from the same bow by the same , ehem, person, they appear to be quite a bit stiffer in reality and tune to a 60LB bow. (cut to centre)
Ive been working on arrows for months, and am posting with confidence of the following 3 things:
1) stu's calculator is a better starting point than a spine chart for a beginner.
2) Stu's calculator is not perfect with EFOC arrows, it over-emphasises the impact of point weight change. (eg. dropping 60gr on the 5575s changes the tear by 1" but the calculator says that this weight change affects spine by 15lbs. doesn't seem right to me)
3) 7595 traditionals are extremely tough, stiff and brilliant arrows. Ive shot them into solid rock at 180fps. the rock comes out second best every time.
cheers
im posting this because before i could shoot anywhere near well enough to think about tuning, I had to buy arrows to practice with ans started with using Stu's calculator to work out what to use. ive now refined them a bit
I use GT trads, ive got 3555, 5575 and 7595s. The 3555s are usless for bows anywhere near centrecut, over 50lb unless you want to shoot 60gr points for some reason.
the 5575s i have are 29" and the 7595s are 29.5" shaft length. according to the bareshafting, papertuning and thousands of practice arrows i have shot, the 5575s tune to a 55lb cut to centre bow with 220gr up front, and are weak with an almost identical bow at 60lbs. (2 inch left tear paper tune) 60gr point weight reduction causes perfect single hole paper tune.
the 7595s have 320gr up front and are longer. according to Stu's calculator, they are weaker in dynamic spine than the 5575s mentioned above by 3lbs. However, when shot from the same bow by the same , ehem, person, they appear to be quite a bit stiffer in reality and tune to a 60LB bow. (cut to centre)
Ive been working on arrows for months, and am posting with confidence of the following 3 things:
1) stu's calculator is a better starting point than a spine chart for a beginner.
2) Stu's calculator is not perfect with EFOC arrows, it over-emphasises the impact of point weight change. (eg. dropping 60gr on the 5575s changes the tear by 1" but the calculator says that this weight change affects spine by 15lbs. doesn't seem right to me)
3) 7595 traditionals are extremely tough, stiff and brilliant arrows. Ive shot them into solid rock at 180fps. the rock comes out second best every time.
cheers
Last edited by Fanto on Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
"So long as the new moon returns in heaven a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the fascination of archery keep hold in the hearts of men" The Witchery of Archery, Maurice Thompson
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
Thanks Fanto, there is a dazzling amount of info out there, and for the beginner that can be quite intimidating.
Fraser.
Fraser.
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
Morning All.
Are they that "tough" or do they just appear that way in an impact test as a result of the shaft having lower mass and thus less Kinetic Energy?Fanto wrote: ... 3) 7595 traditionals are extremely tough, stiff and brilliant arrows. Ive shot them into solid rock at 180fps. the rock comes out second best every time.
Grahame.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
Shoot a Selfbow, embrace Wood Arrows, discover Vintage, be a Trendsetter.
"Unfortunately, the equating of simplicity with truth doesn't often work in real life. It doesn't often work in science, either." Dr Len Fisher.
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
Grahame
they are thicker walled than the weaker spined arrows and seem to be completely resistant to "mushrooming" on impact with hard objects. the 5575s are stronger than the 3555s and the 7595s seem to me to be indestructible.
they are thicker walled than the weaker spined arrows and seem to be completely resistant to "mushrooming" on impact with hard objects. the 5575s are stronger than the 3555s and the 7595s seem to me to be indestructible.
"So long as the new moon returns in heaven a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the fascination of archery keep hold in the hearts of men" The Witchery of Archery, Maurice Thompson
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
I have had very similar results with the trads and I believe the 5575 Trads spine out around 380 spine due to the film over the carbon. I can use the 5575 with 330 up front out of my Bob Lee @ 55lb 28.75 DL and they shoot like darts. They will not shoot out of the new Flatline @ 60lb unless I drop point weight by 50g. I thought about the 7595 trads (11.0g/") but I want the weight up front and not along the shaft. I have had very good results with 300 spine FMJs, 350 - 390 point weight, 3" X 3 feathers, but again too heavy overall and it would cost me a motza for a trip on the goats. The FMJs shoot very nice and start to even up trajectory wise at 50 + metres down range. I would love to set a chrono up down range to check some of these shafts.
As you have indicated all this testing takes time and money. I have more shafts on the way so maybe I may find that sweet weighted arrow with good FOC. I would like 25 - 28% but hay it is fun playing with the differn't combos, once you start with the heavy point weight all the spine charts and calculators go out the window. I also am chasing a happy medim to shoot out of both bows if possible for those long trips away.
I have some one 340 spine shaft GT 7595 footed that seems to shoot real nice @60 out of the Flatline. I have a few on the way that will probably be my goat arrows with 640 - 650g over all weight with about 340 out front pending a bit more testing.
Thanks for the info Fanto, cheers Macca.
As you have indicated all this testing takes time and money. I have more shafts on the way so maybe I may find that sweet weighted arrow with good FOC. I would like 25 - 28% but hay it is fun playing with the differn't combos, once you start with the heavy point weight all the spine charts and calculators go out the window. I also am chasing a happy medim to shoot out of both bows if possible for those long trips away.
I have some one 340 spine shaft GT 7595 footed that seems to shoot real nice @60 out of the Flatline. I have a few on the way that will probably be my goat arrows with 640 - 650g over all weight with about 340 out front pending a bit more testing.
Thanks for the info Fanto, cheers Macca.
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
Ive only ever really shot carbons out of my recurves, with the occasional wooden arrow thrown in for good measure of course..
only ever shot goldtip arrows and just recently got the 5575 trads for the extra weight, i agree with what your saying
shooting around 200gr up front, 29.5inch arrow shaft and out of a 50 pound bow.
watching perfect arrow flight... must have fluked the set up some how
if what your saying is true about the 7595 do you think they would be too stiff to shoot out of this bow, ?
shooting at bang on 28inch draw 50 pounds
Cheers
only ever shot goldtip arrows and just recently got the 5575 trads for the extra weight, i agree with what your saying
shooting around 200gr up front, 29.5inch arrow shaft and out of a 50 pound bow.
watching perfect arrow flight... must have fluked the set up some how
if what your saying is true about the 7595 do you think they would be too stiff to shoot out of this bow, ?
shooting at bang on 28inch draw 50 pounds
Cheers
A smile is priceless, yet can make so much difference
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
depends how far your bow is cut past centre, and how long you leave the 7595s
they need huge weight up front and to be long, maybe 30" with 320 up front to tune to a cut to centre or just before centre bow. will end up at near 700 grains, which will change your trajectory a lot from the 500gr odd youre shooting now, but i dare say they can be made to work
they need huge weight up front and to be long, maybe 30" with 320 up front to tune to a cut to centre or just before centre bow. will end up at near 700 grains, which will change your trajectory a lot from the 500gr odd youre shooting now, but i dare say they can be made to work
"So long as the new moon returns in heaven a bent, beautiful bow, so long will the fascination of archery keep hold in the hearts of men" The Witchery of Archery, Maurice Thompson
Re: Goldtip traditionals, tuning observations and Stu's calc
I shoot these Goldtip 7595's with a 50 pound longbow, and they shoot dead straight with 185 grain field points, 29 inch shafts. Though if the flemish string is twisted up a few less twists than usual they start to go a bit wonky and don't sit straight in the target.
Regards Goldtip traditionals vs. Rocks, my experience has not been so good. I've hit rocks with them three times, one is completely destroyed up front, it got so many cracks it looks like a brush. Another one, two small cracks at the nock end, probably is fixable with sinew, and the other one is fine, except a bit flattened field point.
Also if you're going to buy these arrows pre-fletched, I suggest you inspect them first. I bought a dozen a few weeks ago and found some of them have fletchings starting to come off already, then I inspected them all and found the same thing on some of the arrows I hadn't even shot yet, I had to re-glue them all..
Edit: I think I should mention that the last batch I bought are very good, I've had them for ages, the inside fletchings have been worn down by half a centimeter and the glue is still strong.
Regards Goldtip traditionals vs. Rocks, my experience has not been so good. I've hit rocks with them three times, one is completely destroyed up front, it got so many cracks it looks like a brush. Another one, two small cracks at the nock end, probably is fixable with sinew, and the other one is fine, except a bit flattened field point.
Also if you're going to buy these arrows pre-fletched, I suggest you inspect them first. I bought a dozen a few weeks ago and found some of them have fletchings starting to come off already, then I inspected them all and found the same thing on some of the arrows I hadn't even shot yet, I had to re-glue them all..
Edit: I think I should mention that the last batch I bought are very good, I've had them for ages, the inside fletchings have been worn down by half a centimeter and the glue is still strong.