Very flash feathers

Where to source materials etc. Also the place to show off your new bow or quiver etc.... Making things belongs in Traditional Crafts.

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Mick Smith
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Very flash feathers

#1 Post by Mick Smith » Fri Mar 04, 2005 9:32 pm

Gidday Guys,

You have probably seen the really flash feathers on arrows in U.S. magazines. You know the ones, with pin-stripes and/or part of the feather dyed a different colour. The flashest feather of all is usually the cock feather.

I've been trying to duplicate these works of art, but my results look more like crap. I've tried house paint, material paint, pressure pack cans, and fabric dye, or with the same crappy results.

Obviously there is a secret to doing it. Could somebody out there please come to my rescue before I pull out my last remaining hair? :cry:

Thanks ....... Mick
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#2 Post by Stickbow Hunter » Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:11 pm

G'day Mick,

Sorry mate but your post made me laugh. I guess you might have a grin on your face as well when I tell you how it's done.

The two coloured and pin striped feathers aren't dyed or painted. The different colours are actually parts of a different coloured feather that has been spliced into the main feather. There are a couple of different ways of doing it.

I wrote an article on how to do this some years ago now for Australian Bowhunter. I still have the article on computer but would have to dig up the accompanying photos. It would be easier if you went to the following link which shows you how it is done.

http://www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/ARROWM ... licing.cfm

Do a search on Google and you will find more articles on 'feather splicing' I'm sure. Hope this helps and make sure you show us the results when you've done a few.

Lastly mate don't ever be afraid to ask how something is done or made as that is how we all learn.

Jeff

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Mick Smith
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#3 Post by Mick Smith » Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:26 pm

Jees, thanks Jeff. Thats something I never considered. Yeah, I did have a bit of a laugh. I'll do as you say. Thanks mate :oops:

Mick
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archangel
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feather splicing

#4 Post by archangel » Sat Mar 05, 2005 8:12 pm

Mick,

Your query got me interested, so I followed the link from Jeff. Thats what I like about this site, you can ask questions and someone will know the answer or point you in the right direction. As a result, I have had a go at my first set of spliced feathers below. It's tricky but good fun!
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#5 Post by Stickbow Hunter » Sat Mar 05, 2005 8:46 pm

Good job mate!!! You didn't waste anytime at having a go.

I have attached an old photo I had on file of some of mine. The arrow shafts were hand planed Oregon just for your info.

Have you got any photos yet Mick?

Jeff
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#6 Post by Mick Smith » Sat Mar 05, 2005 9:10 pm

Hey Guys,

If you wanted a real laugh, you should see my painted versions of doing this. Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera.

Your efforts are very impressive gentlemen!

I plan to try this method when I make up my next batch of arrows. I really appreciate you making this possible for me.

Thanks again,

Mick
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erron
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#7 Post by erron » Sun Mar 06, 2005 7:16 pm

Darn fine job Archangel!

8)

Erron

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#8 Post by Buford » Mon Mar 07, 2005 10:10 am

Mick,
I went through the same learning process last year (well worth it). I was going to suggest an easier way to splice your feathers than the method on the link Jeff posted. Don't get me wrong, the way shown on stickbow.com produces very fine results indeed, but it is labour intensive.

I use the "cut and paste" method, (the same as it looks like archangel has used?) whereby you simply cut sections from each colour feather to be used and slide them together. 2 things you need to be sure to do though... 1. use sections from the same part of each feather, (to ensure the bristles(?) are laying in the same angle from the quill) and lightly sand the cut end of the quill back as far as possible without removing more bristles so when they butt up to each other there is no gap.

Then i just use some low adhesive tape to hold it together while its laying in the feather cutter and while its being glued onto the shaft.

here's a pic of one of the last batch i made up (sorry, its low resolution). Hope that gibberish made sense. :wink:

Buford
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#9 Post by erron » Mon Mar 07, 2005 2:09 pm

Nice one Matt!

Erron

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#10 Post by Buford » Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:09 pm

while on the subject...... the vario cutter that, i think pete ward introduced me/ us to works brilliantly.
I have one now with 3 different blades, 5.5in traditional parabol (the shape of the above arrow's feathers), 5in shield and 5.25in sky cuts.
very easy to use. :wink:

buford
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#11 Post by Mick Smith » Mon Mar 07, 2005 4:16 pm

G'day Buford,

There's nothing wrong with your arrow. It looks fantastic. If its easier to do, it will be well worth trying.

I'll have to do some experimenting and find out what method works for me. I've got some old feathers lying around. I'll have a play.

I feel humbled by your helpful responses to my question. Thanks guys.

Mick
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#12 Post by Stickbow Hunter » Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:50 pm

Matt,

Yeah mate good job - might as well make your head swell some more!!! :lol:

I actually do my splicing the same way you do but just found that link and posted it to get Mick started down the right track.

How are you finding the new cutter? I believe it is supposed to do a great job. I wouldn't mind one but I a few of the Little Choppers and can't warrant spending the money on a Vario at present. Maybe down the track if you think they are good. Have you used a Little Chopper so as to be able to give a comparison of the two?

Thanks

Jeff

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#13 Post by Buford » Tue Mar 08, 2005 10:14 am

Jeff,
the vario is very easy to use, and built strong. my only concern is how lond the blades will stay sharp as it presses against metal to make the cut.
I have been assured they will last quite a while as they are hardened steel, but i guess only time will tell.
In any case they arn't that expensive to replace (about $20-$25 i think?).

Unfortunately I haven't used the type cutter you mentioned, I would be interested to do a comparison though.....

cheers
Matt
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