Accurate method to set up bandsaw fence

[greybeard]

I could not find one at the adult toyshop Carba-tec so I made up a simple device for easy setting of the band saw fence.

Some may think it a bit of an over kill but it enables the user to hold the 'T' of the fence firmly against the front track of the table whilst moving the fence to the desired cutting width with the ruler held firmly in place.

The ruler is imperial/metric and the calibration layout is such that zero is top left for all measurements.

It only takes a few seconds to position the ruler [loosen the two knobs] in the mitre gauge and set the cutting width to the inside of the blade [tighten the knobs]. The fence is then slid along to the ruler.

This device also allows you to check that the fence is square to the table by measuring the lead and tail ends of the fence.

Bandsaw Fence Guide.JPG (96.38 KiB) Viewed 3336 times

Daryl.

[GrahameA]

Morning Daryl.

Nice solution. It is definitely not a overkill - my solution is more of an overkill.

However I am unsure if it is a final solution. It will be a faster than my usual measure, nick, adjust, nick, adjust .... method. The error probably does not matter than much for most things as we grind most things to the required dimension.

As Daryl knows I recently picked up an Incra Gauge to do the same job. A slightly more expensive solution to the same problem but it comes with inbuilt repeatability of 1/64".

[longbow steve]

That looks like a good method Daryl.
My bandsaw is not solid and accurate enough to warrant a good fence so I use the table saw for cutting laminations.
Grahame have you got the Incra Jig on a bandsaw? Steve

[GrahameA]

Hi Steve.

I have an Incra Gauge - not an Incra jig. (I will bring it down with me to the shoot.)

Incra Gauge http://www.incra.com/product_gauge.htm

As long as you are happy with moving in 1/64" of an inch they are great. I have wanted one for a long time - ever since I saw a sawtable fitted with two of them.

The tab on the gauge is 1/10" thick and will fit into the slot for the bandsaw blade. It is only a matter of allowing for the width of the cut and the fence is set. Triton users will appreciate it even more as it makes life easier when setting both ends of the fence.

As far as the Incra Jig goes - I would love to have one but I an unsure if it would be a value buy for me ...... I would mainly use it for Dovetails on the router table.

Then again a Gifkins is on my list of things - Daryl handcuts dovetails I route Boxjoints with a special jig. That says it all about skill levels.

Before any of this stuff I need a bigger workshop!

Addenda.

Hi Steve. Just some extra stuff and a bit of a ramble as I have been thinking about things. Measuring and cutting things is either an issue or it is not. For me, sometimes I like to cut thing accurately to size and other times I am happy to "machine" things things to size. At the moment I am doing a lot of "machining" with a spokeshave. Then there are tolerance and accuracy. 1/64" is a reasonably accurate measurement for timber and the great thing about the Incra is that it is repeatable. Old style Imperial Verniers measured in 1/128" and now we use metric versions which measure in even smaller amounts. (Assuming the user can use them appropriately.) My router table fence uses paper shims to adjust the cut - an overkill of the first order. I tend to use a metal tape when measuring things - I should use a metal rule. El Cheapo tapes sometimes leave a bit to be desired

[Steven J]

Daryl,

That looks like a good solution to your problem.

What type of bandsaw are you running? I am looking to tool up my new workshop and a bandsaw is one of the tools on my wish list. It seems that a 14" bandsaw is what most guys use, but I am thinking a 17" will have a bit more of a resaw capacity and the grunt to rip staves from logs. What do you think of the Carba-Tec saws?

Any thoughts and ideas are welcome.

Steve

[greybeard]

Hi Steve,

I upgraded to the 14" Carba-tec BAS350B two speed saw [made in China]. At the time it was on special for $599-00.

Overall, the build quality is good but the aluminium casting that supports the table and allows for table tilt does not mate precisely with the aluminium casting on the frame of the machine. There is a little lateral movement in the table if you push hard enough with your hands but this does not appear to be a problem when cutting timber.

The machine fulfils the tasks that I require from it as it is used for reducing timber sizes and not fine finishing.

Basically you need to give careful thought as to what tasks you need the machine to perform and buy the one that fills those needs. Do you need a single or two speed machine?

I was going to sell my older 12" saw but realised that by keeping it would save me the hassles of changing blades for different jobs. The 12" saw runs a ¼" blade for cutting curves etc and the 14" saw with a ¾" blade is for ripping timber and bamboo.

A change in blade size may sound like a simple exercise but all the bearing guides need to be reset with each blade change.

The larger machines have a side entry for blade changes which removes the need to unbolt the track that carries the fence. Front entry tables can go out of true.

Daryl.

[Steven J]

Thanks Daryl. I hadn't given much thought to blade changes and the saw that I use at the moment is a 24" monster and changing the blade takes about 3 minutes. The fence stays put when changing blades on this saw. I must have a look at how blade changes are made on the smaller machines.

Would you feel comfortable ripping through 4" of hardwood with the right blade on your 14" machine?

Do you find much use of the two speeds in your saw? Do some timbers like different speeds or is it more useful to slow the saw down to cut non-ferrous metals?

Steve

[longbow steve]

Thanks Grahame, I use a steel rule to get the saw set but tend to rely on the drum sander for final dimension and surface prep for glueing.
I look forward to checking it out .

[GrahameA]

Hi Steve.

Thanks Grahame, I use a steel rule to get the saw set but tend to rely on the drum sander for final dimension and surface prep for glueing.
I look forward to checking it out .

I grind, etc. to the final dimensions also.

The Incra gauge is just one of those things. It is very handy in that it allows you repeat measurements due to the interlocking racks. There are a plethora of specialist tools available - it all depends on what you are doing.

[Steven J]

Grahame,

Can you get the Incra Jig in metric? Imperial is good for bows, however the metric would probably get more use for other tasks.

Steve

[GrahameA]

Hi Steve.

n.b. The Incra Gauge and the Incra Jig are seperate products.

Carbatec Incra Jig http://www.carbatec.com.au/the-original ... nce_c21055
Incra Jig Metric http://www.incrementaltools.com/Metric_ ... metric.htm

Conversion kits are available for the LS system. http://www.incrementaltools.com/category_s/255.htm
Be ready for the sticker shock http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/incratslsrvu.html

The also make some very nice rules. http://www.incra.com/product_markingrules.htm

[Steven J]

I was thinking incra guage in my head when I wrote jig

[greybeard]

Hi Steven,

I probably did not give a clear explanation re the blade change.

When changing blades of the same dimensions it is a quick job, At most the tracking needs to be adjusted.

The issue of blade changes results when going from a ¾" blade to a ¼" blade. The rear upper and lower bearing guides need to be adjusted so that the blade travels in the centre of the wheels and the side bearings need to be adjusted so that they are clear of the blades teeth. When changing back to the bigger blade you have to reverse the process.

Saw speed, feed in speed of material and tooth profile need to be considered as to how efficiently the saw dust is removed.

I am runnig the saw at the lower speed. The two speed 14" saw has an extra 1/2 hp than its counterpart and was cheaper than the single speed saw.

I would feel confident feeding 4" hardwood through the saw at a slower rate on the odd occasion with the correct blade but if cutting bigger timber on a regular basis I would go to the larger saw for durability over the longer term.

Daryl.

[Gringa Bows]

Good one Daryl,it looks like it would save a bit of time.