Ozbow

Tb3 can be tough to remove once the glue has set, it doesn't release easily with heat like regular PVA. I have used a heat gun to remove glued on riser blocks at the handle that have started to lift at the fades . A combination of heat and a lot of prying with spatula and renovators pry bar eventual...

Very quick. Nice effort especially for the time. I would be lucky to have the stave floor tillered, at best I'd be up to having a loose string on the tiller stick. I am very particular, slow and methodical and usually have staves with a bit of character. Wish I had a bit more of your youthful energy...

I planted a seedling that Graham Lomas(sp?) gave me. Its been in the ground at least 5yrs, and its not looking like a bow anytime soon. Lucky to be about 1" dia. The soil is sandy, pretty poor. It also wanted to bend over and weep, but that has been counteracted with lines that pull the trunk s...

You have my permission to cut this one down
Only kiddin'
Upper trunk, front of the fork looks good, not the lower trunk though.
Hamish

Pretty much what the other guys said. For practical purposes a couple of inches of reflex glued up in a board/lam stave will increase the cast, and give you a bow with little or no set( so will a heat induced reflex in a tree stave). You will need good quality materials(no borderline species, or sho...

Looks pretty cool. Don't know about its strength for a riser, but definitely fine for other applications.

Hi, What species of tree do you have there?

Lovely!

Looks real good. Did it take much set?
Hamish.

Nice score! Remember you can use any straight sections 36-42" long for jointed billets, or takedown bows. Really nice having a tractor to help you haul out the logs, that stuff is damn heavy to pack out by foot.
Hamish

Hi Daryl, you won't have seen them on Ozbow as I am pretty computer illiterate on posting pictures. I'm pretty sure you would have seen some at Wisemans Ferry about 3-5 years ago, I used to go with there with Longbow Steve, and I have met you in person a couple of times, so you would probably recogn...

Nice work Daryl, especially with the low stringfollow.
Hamish.

A little bit of reflex in the glue up gets rid of any stringfollow issues with lemonwood for elbs. A little reflex is the best approach for many other tropical woods. I use a contrasting wood for the core in tri lams just because its pretty. Maple, beech, or oak ( yew was also used by Victorian era ...

Lovely combo of timbers, very artistic. Beautiful bow.
Hamish.

What type of sanding mask do you use? I'd recommend one with a P2 rating, because the simple white ones are pretty crappy. You must be sensitive to yew if it effects you whilst using a drawknife. You could try barrier cream on your hands/arms, and work outside with a mask,especially when sanding, so...

Another lovely effort, you have had a very productive year, and still the best part of a month to go.
Hamish.

Some nice bows going on there. I reckon there are a lot of good timbers for bows In FNQ, virtually any of the hard, heavy acacias. Thanks for sharing.

Should be good. Just a matter of finding straight grain boards. Pacific Jarrah(bulletwood) is good, takes a bit of set, but works well. Ipe awesome if you can get a thick enough piece. I find that much of the stuff in Aus has been pre milled into flooring, decking etc, by the time the grooving is re...

Nice save Colin, looks good.
Hamish

Look for really straight grain on face and edges of boards.

Hi Chris, If your oak is Tassie Oak, Vic ash etc I wouldn't use it as a belly wood, cause it will just chrysal.
It will make decent arrow shafts though.
Hamish.

Nice score Rob!
Hamish.

Hi again Colin, I just checked some of your previous posts, and I admire your enthusiasm and energy. I mainly asked about your experience because the last couple of posts had titles that implied you weren't having as much success as you would have liked. I think one of the biggest problems with bowm...

Hi Colin, Have you made many lower weight bows before? I ask because its a big call to try for a 100lber if you don't already have plenty of experience, both skill wise and with the combo of materials you are using. The quality of backing needs to be virtually perfect, straight grain, no pin knots a...

Yep, looks pretty chancy for bows, but to be honest I would really need to see them in the flesh. I wouldn't cut them all up for handles yet. Leave them long as it would be a shame to figure out later that some of the bits were suitable for bows, but are cut in half.
Hamish.

Hi Feral, I don't know if you have already made many wood bows? If you haven't you should get some practice with a good clear, straight grained piece of suitable timber, and leave the yew until you have experience with what sort of grain will is suitable for bows. Daryl is right a nice piece of bamb...

A lovely and amusing and inventive use of the offcuts. I usually just stash them away, in the hope of making footings for arrows(which I haven't ever got around to doing). They sometimes get used for making dowels, for pinning mortise and tenon joints in the furniture that I make. Lovely box Rob. Th...

Nice work Daryl. Was the timber's working properties similar to any other that you have tried before?

A tricky knot indeed. I try and get a good bead on any potentially troublesome knot during roughing out on the bandsaw. I leave a big lump in both width and depth and then work the rest of the stave down to just before floor tillering. All the while I remove some of the lump but still checking too m...

Another lovely piece of work Daryl.
I think non bowyers don't really have a good idea of what a bows worth. There also seems to be a lot of bowyers out there willing to sell their bows too cheaply.
Hamish.